Tree peonies. We trim and cover herbaceous peonies and ito hybrids for the winter. Peony leaves turn black

Peony diseases and their treatment require special attention from flower growers, because the manifestations of many ailments are very similar, and often the same treatment methods are used for them, but are not always effective. We often see that leaves curl, turn black, buds dry out, and spots appear. The fight should be carried out immediately, but first you need to know the main signs, and then the drugs and remedies, how to treat the bushes and how to treat them...

Fungal diseases of peonies

Gray mold (botrytis)
It spreads in rainy, cold weather, usually in spring or towards autumn. Young shoots are affected by rot at the very roots and fall. If the stems are already strong, dark rings appear on them. They literally eat away healthy tissue and the stem breaks. Leaves, buds, sepals, and flower petals at the very base are also affected by gray-brown spots.

Treatment is to treat peonies against diseases, and above all against gray rot, using fungicidal preparations, these are copper-containing agents, foundationazole, colloidal sulfur. Spraying is carried out at the very beginning of spring, and then two more times with an interval of 10-12 days. You can treat in turn with different preparations: Bordeaux mixture (100 g each copper sulfate and lime per bucket of water), then a solution of copper oxychloride (40 g per bucket of water) or colloidal sulfur (100 g per 10 liters of water).

Root rot
The disease manifests itself unexpectedly - the leaves of peonies turn black, starting from the tips, and then the stems. The roots rot, decompose, and the plant gradually dies.

Treatment: dig up the roots of peonies and thoroughly clean them of rot, immerse them briefly in a solution of the drug Maxim. Powder the cut areas with ash mixed with foundation in a ratio of 2:1. Then plant the bush in a new place according to all the rules, in a hole measuring 60x60 cm, mix compost or humus with ash and bone meal, fill the hole with fertile and non-acidic soil, deepen the rhizome to 4-5 cm. Treat the remaining bushes with fungicidal preparations for prevention.

Rust
Rust of peonies usually appears after flowering. Brown spots with a purple border appear on the upper part of the leaf blade; red seals appear on the underside, in which spores ripen. Peonies' leaves curl, the affected bushes weaken, have difficulty withstanding frost, and bloom poorly. Rust is treated in the same way as gray mold - with fungicides, only the interval between sprayings is shorter - 7-10 days. Diseased leaves must be removed and burned.
Peony spotting - pictured Peony spotting - cladosporiosis, phyllosticosis, septoria
This different types spotting, but all of them are caused by fungi. Cladosporiosis is also called brown spotting, and septoria blight is brown - brown or yellowish spots appear on peony leaves, they can have a purple or dark border. The leaves dry, followed by the shoots. Spore carriers are attached to the leaves on the inside, which can overwinter even on a cut plant.

Treatment: peonies are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride or phytosprorin-M. Affected leaves and stems are cut off and burned.

Powdery mildew
This disease is also caused by a fungus that affects adult peonies. A white, untidy coating on the leaves is a mycelium with spores.

Treatment: this soap scum is also treated with soap. To do this, prepare a 0.5% solution of soda ash, to which laundry soap is added. Spray in two doses, the second treatment is carried out after 7-10 days.

Viral diseases of peonies

Ring mosaic- the most common viral disease of peonies. Scientists have found that it can be caused by five types of viruses: tobacco rattle, latent strawberry ringspot, raspberry ringspot, cucumber mosaic and alfalfa mosaic. The virus can be transmitted through planting material, soil, garden tools and even through insects - aphids and nematodes.

Signs of a ring mosaic are spots on peony leaves, rings, lines forming a motley pattern of light green and yellow. Appears after flowering. Mosaic leaves look painful and spoil the decorative appearance of the bush. Whether it will interfere with the development of the plant depends on the variety. Some varieties of peonies do not suffer at all from the presence of a ring mosaic. Sometimes it disappears for several years and then flares up again.

Treatment: at the first signs of peony ring mosaic, tear off the affected leaves and remove them along with the stems. Some gardeners believe that the entire bush needs to be eliminated, others believe that there is no need to touch the peony; sooner or later it will cope with the virus on its own.

Pests of peonies

ants on a peony - in the photo

Aphid. Large concentrations of aphids weaken the plant. In addition, aphids, like nematodes, are also carriers of viruses. To combat aphids there is folk remedies– you can sprinkle the bush with ash, spray it with a solution laundry soap. If there are too many insects, treat the peony with karbofos, chlorophos or iron sulfate.

Ants- frequent inhabitants of peony bushes, which bring aphids with them, so getting rid of ants means preventing aphids from entering the beautiful bushes. The remedies listed above can be used if the peony is attacked by turf ants, thrips or rapeseed flower beetle.

Preventive measures:

Peony diseases and their treatment may never complicate the life of a gardener if preventive measures are taken. High acidity of the soil and excess nitrogen in it, heavy soil, proximity to groundwater, and thickened plantings contribute to the development of diseases. Therefore, the soil must be deoxidized and loosened, and the area drained if necessary. Add sand to clay soil. Plant plants at a considerable distance from each other.

In autumn it is necessary to cut the stems and burn them. Particular care should be taken to destroy the affected parts of the plant. As a preventive measure, spray peonies with fungicidal preparations, starting from early spring. Feed the bushes with microelements and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Sometimes gardeners ask why peony buds dry out if the plants do not show any signs of disease? The reason may be poor care: the soil is dry and poor in microelements. Therefore, regularly feed and water the bushes. If they weaken, then peony diseases and their treatment will cause you much more trouble than all preventive measures.

With its exquisite beauty, the tree peony, the care and cultivation of which is not particularly different in level of complexity from gardening chores with its closest relative (the herbaceous peony), will become a worthy decoration for your site. This tall flower is a deciduous plant.

Tree peony, photo:

Its height can reach 1.5-2 m in height; it has straight-growing powerful shoots that grow every year. Attention is attracted not only by its delightful flowers of different shades, but also by carved, as if openwork, feathery leaves. Multi-petal buds are crowned with strong stems, which can reach from 14 to 23 cm in diameter. The tree peony is striking in its color range; depending on the variety, the flowers can be snow-white, pink, scarlet, rich fuchsia, yellow, soft lilac, blue (Blue Sapphire ) and even light green (Green Jade). Pay attention to the size of the flower itself, for example, the first pink flower in the photo below it has a diameter of exactly the indicated 23 cm (and the second one is even larger).

Flower sizes, photo:

The color of the petals can also have a gradient - a smooth transition from one color to another. The texture of the buds is also varied: terry, semi-double, regular smooth. A notable feature of the tree is the increase in the number of flowers every year. Its flowering time begins 10-14 days earlier than that of its relative, the ordinary peony. Its tolerance to cold is higher, it has a more stable “immunity” compared to its grassy counterpart.

Gradient coloring of flower petals, photo:

The bush is distinguished by abundant flowering; the number of blooming buds at a time can reach up to 40-50 pieces. Most often, the duration of the blooming phase of each flower is 8-10 days, but even just a bush generously covered with green foliage can decorate any country cottage area or a flowerbed.

Tree peony foliage, photo:

Due to its large size, it is planted separately from other flowers, or at a certain distance from other garden representatives. As an addition to other inhabitants of the garden, it also looks very harmonious; with its individuality it will appropriately emphasize a hedge, an arch, the area near a gazebo, a garden bench or the entrance to a house.

The first visual difference is the more powerful, woody shoots with characteristic leaves. In fact, it is a bush. In the herbaceous one, closer to the cold weather, the stems and shoots die off, while the tree-like one only grows them, every year turning into a spherical shrub that can reach 2 meters in height. In the fall, it naturally sheds its leaves, but the shoots remain, become strong, as if they become lignified.

One more thing: on a tree-like representative there is no need to periodically cut off the buds to stimulate subsequent flowering and distribute the vitality of the plant. This method works well only in the case of its herbaceous “relative”. Treelike in its “behavior” is similar to cold-resistant garden roses - it tolerates winter well, but in especially severe frosts (in the northern regions of Russia) it is better to protect it with special covering material. You can also use spruce branches for these purposes.

If your peony feels comfortable on the site, and you do everything correctly and in a timely manner, then its flowering period will last approximately 3-4 weeks. Usually it blooms before its grassy counterpart by one and a half to two weeks. Weather conditions and temperature background in the region significantly influence this factor. For example, in central Russia they bloom in the first weeks of calendar summer. Without replanting, in one place, it can grow for decades. For example, the bushes that you can see in the photographs below are already 20-30 years old. There are known cases when the number of flowers on one bush reached 100 pieces!

Photos of long-lived bushes:

Another significant nuance (and difference) is the fact that they bloom only in the 4th or 5th year from the moment of planting in open ground. First, one flower appears at the end of an upright growing shoot, and then, gradually, over time, the bush gains color, grows shoots, and is abundantly covered with buds. In the first few years it may seem to you that the bush has stopped growing, but this is a normal phenomenon for this species; for the first five years it generally very slowly increases in volume and growth. The temporary difference in the “ripening” of the bush is another difference.

The main difference between tree-like and herbaceous can be briefly summarized by the following parameters:

• bush height;
• the size of the flower itself (its diameter);
• nuances, differences in care;
• shoot hardness.

Take into account the natural slow growth of this flower; the process of growing shoots occurs gradually and not as quickly as we would like. For the bush to begin producing flowers, it must grow to at least 60 cm in height.

This question can often be seen on thematic flower forums or various gardening groups in in social networks. The answer is predictable - improper care, an unsuccessfully chosen planting site, as well as illiterate preparation of the soil for it (lack of drainage, failure to properly bury the flower in the soil). These nuances will be discussed below. The bush itself can be quite old or, conversely, young, not yet reaching the stage of flower appearance (as we remember, more than one year must pass for a tree peony to produce color).

The place to place the bushes should be light and spacious, the soil should be fertile, loose, and alkaline.

This plant really does not like transplanting - you should know about this. If it happens that for some reason a transplant is still required, then all actions should be carried out with the utmost care. You need to remove the bush from the soil with a lump of earth, and be vigilant so that the roots are not damaged. However, be prepared for the fact that after this event the flower will take a very long time to recover, get sick and adapt to the new place for 2 or even 3 years.

Proper watering also has big influence for flowering. You need to water abundantly and generously at a time, but you don’t need to do this often! Stagnation of water is dangerous for it, therefore, if clay soil predominates on your site, provide your pet with high-quality drainage before planting (place a layer of drainage in the hole under the flower). It develops and grows better in open sunny places, but in partial shade the flowers retain their freshness and bloom longer.

I will summarize the main reasons why tree peony does not bloom:

1. Insufficient or, conversely, excessive penetration of the bush into the soil during planting.
2. Overdoing it with nitrogenous fertilizers.
3. Excessive enthusiasm or, conversely, insufficient provision of fertilizing (this flower does not need a large amount of auxiliary additives).
4. Damage to the bush by frost or, conversely, abnormal heat. Diseases should also not be written off. When planting a flower, always take into account the predisposition of the selected variety to the temperature conditions of the weather in your area. For example, if you live in warm regions, choose early-flowering varieties.
5. A simple lack of sunlight may also be the reason why the bush does not bloom.
6. Age - young bushes bloom at the 4th or 5th year of life, as already mentioned above.
7. Too close a distance between plants - he loves space.
8. Replanting (sometimes multiple times) or dividing the rhizome can also be a consequence of the lack of flowers.
9. Pruning shoots. Unknowingly, some gardeners prune shoots with the onset of autumn. Sometimes even before the foliage begins to change color (darken) or fall off.
10. Excessive dryness or, conversely, waterlogging of the soil. Remember that the soil should have time to dry out between waterings.

Many gardeners would like a flower to combine its own beauty along with the unpretentiousness of its herbaceous counterpart. Breeders are not idle and are constantly trying to develop new hybrids; they are called ITO peonies (new generation peonies) - but that’s a completely different story.

A separately growing bush (it needs space), photo:

Pay attention to the planting material - its root system can be open or closed. When purchased at the appropriate points of sale, the seedling may already have special packaging (for example, a plastic bag on top), and its roots, on the contrary, may be bare or in a bag with substrate. Such indicators tell us that this is a peony with an open root system. But if the plant is sold in a ready-made pot and even has (sometimes) buds, then it is a flower with a closed root system.

Be sure to look at whether the seedling has grafting or whether it has its own roots. If grafting is present, the roots are dark in color and thick. They can reach 4-5 cm in diameter and are somewhat similar in appearance to carrots. For such representatives, flowers may appear in the first year of life after planting. Such samples must be purchased from the appropriate nurseries, under the guidance of competent professional gardeners - and nothing else.

If you received a seedling obtained from layering, then its roots will be light, thin and long. After planting it, you will be able to see flowers after 4 years (approximately). There is nothing new in the “scheme” for obtaining cuttings: a healthy and strong shoot with buds is bent to the ground, pinned, and covered with soil. After a certain time, roots sprout from the buds, the shoot is cut off and divided into several fragments with roots.

When purchasing such a seedling obtained from a cutting, pay attention that its roots are not exposed, and that the plant itself has at least 5 viable buds. The length of such a seedling must be at least 25 cm!

In order for a beautifully flowering bush to develop well, be strong and healthy, the very first thing is to choose a comfortable time and place for planting it. The most favorable period for this is considered to be late summer/early autumn. If possible, choose an elevated place for it, illuminated by the rays of the sun. Dense trees or various buildings growing nearby will create a dense shadow - and this is unacceptable for any peony. Light shading is the most optimal place. Winds and drafts are also extremely undesirable. As for planting in the spring, it is not recommended due to the complex adaptation of the plant, because growth and flowering are activated during this period.

Loams are the ideal soil for this flower; if sandy soil predominates on your site, then add turf, clay, peat, and humus to it in advance. Organic fertilizers and clean river sand can significantly improve the composition of the soil for the harmonious development of peony. He also does not like acidic soil, so “deoxidize” it in advance by adding lime. Plant the flower where there is no low groundwater, but if there is no other possibility, then the hole for it needs to be made quite deep (about 70-80 cm, the diameter is similar). Place a layer of drainage at the bottom of the recess, about 30-35 cm; crushed stone or fine gravel are perfect for this job. As a last resort, a 30 cm layer of river sand can also be used.

Tree peony - how to plant? There is nothing complicated here: build a small mound of earth in a hole, place a bush on it, carefully straighten the roots, and water generously. After the moisture is absorbed into the soil, sprinkle the seedling so that its root collar is flush with the soil surface.

If you plant several bushes at once, do not forget about the distance between them, it should be at least two meters from one plant to another!

The so-called “fastidiousness” consists of finding a golden mean - creating optimal and harmonious conditions. The burning sun is harmful, but dense shade is also unacceptable, it loves water, but waterlogging is fraught with rotting of the roots, and free space is necessary for the flower to grow and become a luxurious, lush shrub. The soil is important because it is the plant’s nutrition, so it must be fertile and loose, drained. In principle, there is nothing difficult in this task for a passionate gardener, since every green resident requires attention, but also rewards accordingly - with beauty and the awareness of success that it finally worked out, grew, blooms and smells!

Tree peony planting and care - additions (optional):

1. Some gardeners say that the planting hole must first “mature”. I have already written above about diluting the soil with fertilizers and additives, but according to some experienced gardeners, this hole should be prepared a month before planting the seedling. That is, add all the additives in advance, and only then bury the seedling in the hole.
2. When a seedling is buried in the ground, its lowest bud should already be embedded into the soil by about 15 cm. Some gardeners recommend laying such a “pie” in advance at the bottom of the hole: a layer of humus, a thin layer of soil, add complex fertilizer on top, sprinkle evenly on it 1 a heaped tablespoon of copper sulfate. To be even more reliable, you can mix a little slaked lime with the soil (to lower the pH).
3. If a seedling falls into your hands in late autumn or winter, then “sleep” it until the end of next summer. To do this, take a small pot with a suitable soil mixture, bury the bush in it, and place it in a cool but well-lit room. During this entire period, the flower will strengthen its roots, and in the last weeks of August or the first two weeks of September you can plant it for permanent residence in open ground.

Listen to these additions or plant a plant without any special tricks - the choice is yours. As practice shows, if all requirements are correctly followed, in both cases you will get a positive result.

Basic care for it is, in principle, the same as for grassy ones. From time to time you should loosen the soil, remove weeds, and fertilize it. If your bush boasts an abundance of flowers and shoots, be sure to provide support for it so that the branches do not break under the weight of the flowers.

One bush requires approximately 6-8 liters of water; such abundant watering should be carried out at least 2 times a month. Please take into account possible precipitation! During the summer heat, this can be done more often - the condition of the soil and the flower itself will tell you. From about August, the volume of water used for irrigation should be gradually reduced until completely eliminated. It is recommended to fluff the soil around the bush a couple of days after watering, when the top layer of soil dries out. The depth of immersion of garden tools into the soil when loosening should be no more than 5 cm. You can mulch with humus, but its layer should not be too thick.

Peony loves nitrogen and potassium very much, it needs to be added regularly. Nitrogen fertilizers are relevant at the very beginning of the growing season, and potassium-phosphorus supplements will be appropriate from the moment the peony begins to form flower buds until the very end of the growing season. When the bush begins to produce flowers, in addition to its favorite potassium and phosphorus, you can add a little nitrogen. However, it should be remembered that an excess of this component can ruin it, so whether to add nitrogen during this period or not is up to you. Sometimes it’s better to be safe than sorry – this is exactly the case with nitrogen fertilizer. Do not forget to moisten the soil abundantly before each application of fertilizing - this will create a protective background for the root system of the flower.

While your peony is at a young age, for the first 2.5-3 years, fertilizers are applied using the foliar method: approximately 35-40 g of mineral additives are diluted in a bucket of water (10 l) and the bush is irrigated with a spray bottle after each watering. Thus, the plant receives “nutrition” through foliage and shoots. Adult representatives are fed three times a year: in the spring, during the appearance of new shoots, during the swelling of the buds, after the bush has completely faded.

As mentioned above, the tree peony is cold-resistant, however, purchased specimens require mandatory protection in winter. It will be better if for the first couple of years you cover them for the winter with lutrasil, spunbond, burlap or spruce branches. Additionally, you can make a “hat” of snow on top. The cultivation and protection of (even adult) peonies in cold regions was discussed above.

Like any plant, it needs pruning, but it is more of a maintenance nature. This procedure should be carried out in early spring, when the growing season has not yet begun. All damaged, shriveled and dead branches must be removed. Old shoots are shortened by about 10-15 cm.

In China, there is a tendency to carry out radical anti-aging pruning every 10 years - when the shoots are cut out almost to the root. This manipulation is aimed at awakening and activating new buds, which subsequently gives a “second life” to the flower.

Or each branch is pruned to the border of the second bud - such pruning contributes to the abundant and lush flowering of the shrub. How it is there in China - they know better, but in our regions, according to experimental observations, the tree peony does not really like pruning, so with the onset of spring, at least remove damaged and dry shoots. If you notice that some branches are very frozen, do not rush to cut them off, it is quite possible that the buds will still “move away”, wake up and bloom - this also happens.

Main diseases and methods of combating them:

1. The most dangerous and insidious enemy is gray rot (aka Botrytis). This fungal disease is activated when the soil is waterlogged and there is not enough sun (for example, when there is a rainy summer). A grayish coating appears on the leaves - if you notice this, immediately cut off suspicious fragments and burn them somewhere away from the area. Another sign of this disease is softening and sudden wilting of young and strong shoots. It is treated by irrigation with potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 liters of water) and a 7% solution of copper sulfate (copper sulfate), also diluted with water. You should irrigate not only the ground part of the bush, but also the soil around it, and even the mulch.
2. Brown spot - same actions. It can be prevented by irrigation with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 liters of water). Affected leaves also require immediate removal and destruction, and the bush itself (aerial part) is treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
3. Rust (some gardeners claim that this is a synonym for brown spot) very quickly affects the bush, it even happens that the entire plant is destroyed in a day. First, brownish-purple spots appear on the leaves, and then the foliage sharply curls and at the same time dries out. The treatment is radical - removing all affected parts of the bush and destroying them. In the case of rust, prevention helps a lot: timely loosening of the soil to ensure an influx of fresh air (removing weeds and thinning out other nearby plants). In early spring, even before leaves appear on the shoots, or in late autumn, when they all fall off, the ground under the bush and around it needs to be treated with a solution of nitrafen diluted in water, 200 g per 1 bucket of water will be enough.
4. Ring mosaic of foliage is another viral disease that is manifested by the appearance of stripes and “rings” on the leaves. These lesions have a yellowish or light green tint; as practice shows, the ring-shaped mosaic does not particularly affect the flowering and development of the bush, but appearance spoils the foliage. The strips dry out over time and the sheet seems to crack. Contact fungicide "Maxim" copes well with this disease; it should be diluted as indicated on the package.

By the way, diseases are very often transmitted not only through contaminated planting material or soil, but also through gardening tools. Insects, even ordinary ants, can transmit a fungus or virus to healthy bushes.

A real garden aristocrat is a tree peony; its cultivation and care, as well as its approach to itself, oddly enough, requires a completely unpretentious one and has no special requests. This exquisite plant harmoniously combines the qualities of an ornamental flower and a shrub. A long-liver will delight you and your loved ones with its beauty for many years and even decades.

Peonies have long been famous for their lush flowering and unpretentiousness. That is why gardeners prefer this shrub. Of course, there are some nuances in the growing process. Let's consider the process of planting and caring for the plant, and also find out whether tree peonies need to be pruned before the winter period.

Tree peony is a deciduous shrub. The size of the plant can reach 1.5-2 meters. The leaves of the flower are ornamental, openwork. The stems are brown and quite thin. It is worth noting that they don't die off in the fall, but only increase every year. Large flowers with a diameter of 12-20 centimeters are located at the ends of the shoots.

There are many colors: from white and light pink to bright purple and crimson. There are two-color species. tree peony cold-resistant.

There are three main plant varieties:

1. Japanese.
2. Chinese-European.
3. Hybrid.

The number of flowers is directly proportional to the age of the peony: the older it is, the more magnificent it blooms. The average flowering time of a plant is about two to three weeks. Planting and caring for tree peonies is standard, but it is necessary to pay attention to the characteristics of the plant.

Growing conditions

Peonies are considered light-loving plants, which is why harmonious growth requires a sunny area, preferably at a slight elevation. Plants do not tolerate transplantation well, so the landing site must be permanent. It is better if there are no other large plants around, such as bushes or trees.

Growing a tree peony will require advance preparation of the site and soil. Flooded areas with excessive moisture are not suitable for the growth of tree peony. If there is no alternative, you will need to install drainage and ensure removal of excess moisture. Give preference to soil with an alkaline reaction (from 7.5 to 8 pH).

Planting a tree peony

An excellent time for planting a tree peony can rightfully be called the period from mid-August to early October. It is necessary to select a plot of land that is protected from the wind and well lit. We will look in detail at the process of growing a plant from a seedling, but there is also the option of growing a tree peony from seeds.

Before planting, make sure the soil is loamy and moist. If the soil is extremely dry, add humus, clay or peat to it. Too heavy, clay soil can be diluted with organic fertilizers or sand. If the soil is acidic, add lime or bone meal.

Planting process

You will need to dig a cone-shaped hole. The diameter of the hole at the surface, as well as its depth, is approximately 60-70 centimeters. Then make a small layer of drainage from gravel, expanded clay or broken brick, no more than 20 centimeters. When planting several plants, you will need to maintain a distance of 1.5-2 meters.

It is best if the soil has time to settle - so the holes will have to be dug in advance, two to three weeks before planting.

Place fertile soil on top so that it forms a small mound. Now you need to plant and water the tree peony seedling abundantly. After some time, the earth will settle on its own and the roots will straighten out.

If there are buds on a tree peony seedling, they must be removed. After the liquid is completely absorbed, fill the hole. There is no need to trample down the soil.

Plant care

The care process takes quite a lot of time, but only with comprehensive care will you keep the plant healthy. The following activities are considered the most important:

• loosening the soil after watering,
• watering,
• removal of weeds.

The watering regime is standard for peonies of any variety: they are watered twice a month, 6-7 liters of water per bush. Of course, it is necessary to take into account natural conditions, and in hot climates, moisten the plantings more abundantly. In August, watering can be reduced, but in the fall it must be stopped completely.

Feeding peonies is most important in the spring, as the plants need nitrogen fertilizers.

During the period of bud formation, purchase fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus. Do not forget that an excess of nitrogen fertilizers leads to the death of plantings. Mulching using humus is useful in the summer.

Forming tree peony bushes allows you to give it a beautiful appearance. During the swelling of the buds (in spring), it is necessary to cut off damaged and dried shoots, and trim the branches to the upper axillary point.

By the beginning of November, it is necessary to tie up the shoots of the plant and mulch the tree trunk circle. The plant will need to be trimmed by two-thirds of the length of the leaves, which will increase frost resistance. At the first frost, peonies are covered with burlap or spruce branches.

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Tree peony care in autumn, preparation for winter. Especially for readers of “Popular about Health” I will consider how to properly end the season for a plant such as a tree peony - care in the fall, preparation for winter, what it involves. How to perform all the necessary manipulations so that this beautiful plant will delight gardeners with its stunning flowers next year?

Features of tree peony

Tree peony is a deciduous shrub whose height varies from 150 to 200 centimeters. Thick, erect shoots are pale brown. Unlike the herbaceous peony, the stems of such a plant do not wither in the autumn, but grow more and more every year, and over time the bush acquires a semi-spherical shape. The ornamental, openwork leaves are double pinnate. The flowers are located at the ends of the stems and their diameter varies from 12 to 20 centimeters or more. Such flowers are double, semi-double and simple. They can be painted white, purple, yellow, pink, crimson, and are also available in two colors. With age, flowering becomes more abundant. The flowering of such a peony begins 2 weeks earlier than the herbaceous one, and its duration is 14–21 days. Such peonies are resistant to cold.

Preparing a tree peony for winter

During the period of preparing the plant for winter, gardeners begin to think about how to preserve peonies in the winter, whether it is necessary to cover the tree peony for the winter and how to do it.

In fact, opinions differ in the floriculture literature; some authors recommend covering peonies in winter months, others consider it unnecessary. In fact, peony is not as afraid of frost as early spring thaws, during which the peony buds, uncovered by snow or covered with material, can wake up, and, as a rule, frosts following a thaw can destroy the plant that has begun to grow. Therefore, the conclusion suggests itself that covering the peony for the winter is a completely unnecessary measure.

In order to cover a peony, in October you need to tie up the shoots, mulch the tree trunk with peat (humus), and with the onset of cold weather it is better to cover the plant with a hut of spruce branches, leaves, a thick layer of crushed bark, sawdust or just jute bags so that the tree can overwinter peony went well.

If we are talking about a herbaceous peony, after flowering its stems must be cut to a level of 5-7 cm above the ground and mulched in the same way as described above in the case of a woody peony. If you live in a very cold region, then shelter will be a good idea.

In principle, these are the main aspects that will help you properly care for peonies after flowering and prepare them well for wintering.

Autumn pruning of tree peony for winter

When to prune peonies for the winter

Preparing plants for winter is quite a responsible undertaking, because if you prune prematurely, there is a risk of ruining the entire flower. That is why the question of when to prune bushes for the winter is very important.

Here you should focus on the appearance of the bush. If all its stems sink to the ground, you can begin the procedure.

Features of pruning tree peony

Plants should be pruned at the root for the winter. All removed parts of the plant (stems, leaves) should be taken out of the flower garden to prevent the development of pathogenic fungi. Cut bushes must be protected from frost.

Rules for pruning tree peony

There are some rules that will help answer the question of whether it is necessary to prune bushes after flowering, and how to do it correctly.

For the procedure to be successful, you need to do the following:

Start pruning for the winter after the first frost, when all the stems of the bush fall to the ground.

The stems of the plant should be cut almost to the root, leaving sprouts above the buds no more than 10 cm high.

The remaining root system it is necessary to carefully protect from the cold with humus or dry peat.

How to cover a tree peony for the winter

According to experienced gardeners, insulating a tree peony for the winter is not at all difficult. First you need to sprinkle the tree trunk circle with peat, and with the onset of frost, you will only need a few spruce branches, from which you need to build something like a hut around it. To prevent the hut from falling apart, tie the branches with twine.

Alternatively, you can prepare oak leaves in advance and fill the frame built around the bush with them. It additionally needs to be covered from dampness.

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The layer of peat with which you will sprinkle the ground around the bushes should be at least 10 cm. For northern regions, you can increase it to 15-20 cm. This warm shelter will not only save the plant, but will also provide the nutrients necessary for growth and development in the spring . Peonies covered in this way will bloom earlier and more abundantly, since peat and humus will become a good growth stimulator for plants.

Propagation of tree peony by seeds

Using seeds, you can not only propagate, but also get your own varieties of tree peonies, which will not be found in any garden. When propagating peony by seeds, you need to have time to collect them correctly and on time. To do this, two weeks after flowering, the seed pods are tied with gauze - this technique will allow you not to lose a single ripened seed. The seeds are collected when the boxes open and the seeds spill out into the gauze.

Tree peony seeds lose their viability quite quickly, so they are sown in the year of collection.

For sowing, prepare an ordinary plastic deep box (for example, for fruit) and a tray suitable in size. Prepare a soil mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 2:1.

The collected seeds have a very hard shell that must be broken, i.e. perform scarification. For this I use two sheets of fine sandpaper. I put several seeds on one sheet and cover it with a second sheet of sandpaper on top, press it with my palm and roll the seeds, or you can use a file.

Place the seeds in a box with moistened soil to a depth of 1.5 cm, sprinkle on top with a 0.5 cm layer of river sand. To prevent the soil from drying out, the box is inserted into a bag and sealed tightly (I use large garbage bags). The seeds are sown sparsely, with a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, because they will have to spend considerable time in the box, and there should not be crowding. To comply with all recommendations regarding temperature, I choose a hot day for sowing and place the box in the greenhouse at noon. There the seeds are warmed up like in a sauna, and in the evening the temperature slowly drops, which also corresponds to the sowing conditions. In the evening (around 22:00) I take the box from the greenhouse and place it in the refrigerator, where after a while sprouts should appear.

As soon as the plants hatch, I take out the box and bury it in the garden bed (without a tray), build a greenhouse around it, similar to the cuttings, and cover it in the same way for the winter.

Propagation of tree peony by cuttings

How to propagate tree peonies from cuttings? We will describe this procedure step by step. Guided by our instructions, even beginners can cope with it. The best time to take cuttings from semi-lignified shoots with well-formed buds is mid-June.

Armed with a sharp knife, cut the cuttings, making oblique cuts directly under the bud.

All leaf blades must be shortened, leaving only 1/3 of their previous length.

After treating the sections with a root formation stimulator, the cuttings are planted at an angle of forty-five degrees in a seedling box filled with a mixture of peat and washed river sand, taken in equal proportions. The buds should be completely buried in the soil and make sure that the cuttings do not touch each other.

To prevent moisture evaporation, the surface of the substrate in the box is covered with a one and a half centimeter layer of sifted sand.

Covering the boxes with plastic film or glass, throughout the entire period of rooting the planting material, they take care of a constant level of soil moisture, not forgetting the need to regularly ventilate improvised greenhouses.

In September or early October, the rooted cuttings are quite ready to be transplanted into individual pots. The best place a greenhouse is used to maintain them until spring and transplant them to a permanent place.

The disadvantages of this method of propagating tree peonies are the high complexity and labor-intensive process of rooting cuttings and the extremely slow development of young plants (they bloom only in the fifth year of life).

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Reproduction of tree peony by layering

Choose a shoot that is as close to soil level as possible. In May, make a cut on it, but not very deep, and treat it with a stimulant so that roots form. The shoot is tilted to the ground and secured. About 15 cm of soil is poured on top. By autumn, the cuttings will have already taken root, then they are separated from the bush and transplanted to a new place.

You can get a new bush by rooting air layering. To do this, make an incision in the same way, treat it with a stimulant, but then wrap it in moss and film. In August the roots should appear; this method, unfortunately, does not provide a 100% guarantee of success.

Tree peony grafting

The best time to graft a tree peony is the end of August. The rootstock is root segments of herbaceous or tree-like peonies 10-15 cm long; The thickness of the root should correspond to the thickness of the cutting. The roots are dug up 2-3 weeks in advance and kept in a cool place. Scion - only shoots of the current year, preferably with two eyes. Grafting with a wedge-shaped cut. Make a wedge-shaped cut on the rootstock. Cut the bottom of the scion into a wedge shape. The surfaces of the scion and rootstock must be completely smooth so that the cambial layers coincide. Insert the scion into the rootstock, tie tightly with insulating tape (sticky side out) and coat with garden varnish.

Grafted plants can be planted in the ground immediately after grafting. But it is better to first plant the grafted material for 3-4 weeks in a greenhouse protected from direct sunlight, leaving the graft above the soil level, and water it regularly. Another option is to keep the grafted material in the basement for 3-4 weeks - in a horizontal position, in 2-3 layers, layered with wet sawdust.

Lateral grafting. Cut the scion diagonally at a slight angle. Cut the root at the same angle. Tie the combined scion and rootstock tightly and coat with garden varnish.

Diseases and pests of tree peony

The tree peony is more resistant to disease than its herbaceous counterpart. The only significant threat may be gray rot, the development of which is facilitated by excess moisture. In this case, the affected leaves must be immediately removed and burned, and the plant itself must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.

If you want to have a spectacular and unusual perennial plant on your site, then let it be a tree peony. Preparing for winter and caring for it will not take much time, but unusual look and bright flowers will delight the eyes and surprise guests. It can be planted either as single bushes or in group plantings, for example, with ordinary herbaceous peonies. And although shrub seedlings are quite expensive, its perennial flowering more than compensates for all costs.

It is believed that peony is one of those flowering perennials that do not require special care. However, if you do not carry out a number of necessary agrotechnical measures in the fall, then next year you may not expect active flowering from this perennial.

How to properly prepare plants in the fall for the upcoming cold weather, what care these flowers need in the fall, how to properly prune peonies for the winter, whether they need to be covered for the winter - this and much more will be discussed below.

Caring for flowers in autumn

Autumn is the most important time in the process of caring for peonies. Usually in the spring and during the summer, the main care for these flowering bushes consists of timely watering, loosening the soil, removing weeds and cutting off fading buds. What should you do in the fall, when this perennial is actively preparing for the coming cold?

• fertilizing flowering shrubs;
• replanting shrubs (if there is a need for this);
• autumn pruning;
• mulching around bushes.

No other care for peonies is required in the fall when preparing them for winter. There are no special or specific nuances in caring for a plant in the fall.

Features of preparation for winter

Pruning is the most important part of preparing peonies for winter. Therefore, we should dwell in more detail on this procedure in the autumn, when and how the flowers are subjected to the procedure, as well as when the last fertilizing of these flowers needs to be done, and why these flowering plants need it.

Is it necessary to prune the plant for the winter?

Many flower growers wonder whether it is necessary to prune peonies for the winter in the fall. And some novice flower growers do not understand why it is necessary to cut off the foliage of this perennial shrub in the fall, because these leaves are not affected by any diseases or pests, but simply in the autumn they turn yellow and dry out - this is how the next development cycle of this flower ends.

But at the same time, they forget that wilted foliage that remains uncut is an ideal place for overwintering various harmful insects, their larvae or the eggs they lay. Pathogenic microorganisms can also “hide” there.

Therefore, it is imperative to trim such peony leaves in the fall. This is a mandatory sanitary measure that should be performed at the end of each summer season.

Some gardeners postpone such an event until the spring, but you should not do this, so that unexpected guests do not appear on the site in the spring - “harmful” bugs that have overwintered in the withered leaves of the plant. Therefore, you need to cut off the peony leaves for the winter.

When to prune a plant in the fall

Timing is also important in this matter. So, when can you prune peonies for the winter? The first pruning is carried out after the end of flowering - at this time only all wilted flowers are removed, the foliage should not be touched.

The fact is that after flowering ends, the process of photosynthesis continues in the leaves, which allows the roots of the plant to accumulate the nutrients they need for growth, restoration of strength after flowering, and also strengthening resistance to upcoming frosts.

Therefore, early removal of leaves, instead of benefit, only brings harm to the shrubs.

The flowers are already weakened after the active growth of the vegetative mass and abundant flowering, so they need increased nutrition, and photosynthesis helps decompose useful substances entering the foliage from the root system.

Therefore, the process of pruning peonies in the fall is carried out after the first frost. The leaves will then fall to the ground, and this will be the main sign that it is time to trim the peonies.

Until this time, the nutrients that are formed in the foliage actively entered the root system.

Some gardeners begin pruning peony foliage for the winter when it begins to change its color from green to yellow, bronze, pink or red. Amateurs perform this procedure solely because of the reduction in decorative properties of shrubs. However, only the foliage of diseased shrubs dries out prematurely, and healthy foliage serves the perennial to accumulate the required amount of useful elements in the underground part.

And if there is a need to cut the leaves earlier, then you should leave at least 2-3 leaves on each stem, which will process the beneficial elements obtained with the juice from the root system.

Instructions and procedure diagram

There are no special nuances when carrying out the procedure for ordinary varieties of peonies. They are usually pruned when all the foliage has fallen to the ground. In different regions, the timing of such pruning of peonies in the fall differs due to the different times of frost, after which a similar procedure is carried out. The stems of these shrubs are cut almost to the level of the soil, leaving them sticking out of the soil a couple of centimeters.

And the procedure for pruning tree peonies in the fall is completely different. They distinguish the following types of procedures:

• formative;
• for bush rejuvenation.

In the first case, such pruning of peonies in the fall is necessary to give the bushes a beautiful decorative shape. Therefore, in the fall, all woody stems are cut off by 0.7-0.9 m. In this case, next year a larger number of young shoots will form on the bushes, and this procedure also promotes abundant flowering of the perennial. In addition, pruned bushes are easier to cover before the onset of frost. But in the conditions of the European part of our country, tree-like varieties can grow up to 2.5 m in height.

Rejuvenating pruning of peonies in the fall is carried out once every 10-15 years to remove old shoots and activate the growth of new ones. The need for this procedure is easy to notice - the bushes grow worse during the season, and flowering noticeably decreases or stops altogether. With the correct and timely rejuvenating procedure, you can save the life of this flowering perennial for 60-80 years.

Important! All cut shoots along with foliage are immediately removed from the site and burned, and the cut areas and soil are sprinkled with ash for disinfection.

Video: how to properly prune peonies for the winter.

Caring for peonies after pruning, feeding

Feeding peonies is usually done a couple of weeks before the onset of frost. The usual timing for autumn fertilization is from the second ten days of September to the first ten days of October. Specific timing depends on climatic conditions the region in which these flowers grow.

Important! In the fall, do not use any nitrogen fertilizers as top dressing to prevent the bush from growing before winter.

Usually, on warm, dry autumn days, mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are applied. At the beginning of autumn, these elements are necessary for the root system, which continues to grow and accumulate useful substances during this period.

The advantages of this method of feeding:

• the next year stronger and larger buds grow on the stems;
• flowering of bushes next season will be more active;
• the flowers will be larger in size, and their color will be more intense;
• the applied phosphorus-potassium fertilizers help strengthen the root system, allowing it to strengthen its defenses against the oncoming cold weather, and the bushes themselves grow stronger and stronger next year.

Feeding during this period is applied in the following ways:

• in dry form;
• liquid.

If the autumn turns out to be dry, then it is better to dilute phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in water according to the instructions and apply directly under the roots. A liter of this solution is enough for each bush.

It is better to use in rainy weather granular fertilizers, which gradually decompose in the soil and reach the roots in certain portions. Typically, dry fertilizers are scattered around the stems of the plant, lightly embedding them into the soil.

Video: preparing peonies for winter, pruning time, fertilizer.

How to cover peonies for the winter

Pruning peony bushes and fertilizing are not the only steps to prepare this flowering perennial for winter. It is important to properly cover peonies for the winter so that they do not freeze during winter frosts. This procedure is especially relevant in those regions where there are severe frosts in winter and the amount of snowfall is small.

The growth buds of this flower lie in the soil at a depth of no more than 6 cm, so the first step is to spud the pruned bushes.

A layer of mulch with a thickness of at least 15-18 cm should be laid on top. Sawdust, spruce branches, high peat, dry leaves, humus or compost can be used as such material.

Something to remember! Cut foliage of the plant cannot be used as a covering material. It usually attracts “harmful” insects and pathogens.

During the winter, you can additionally cover the peonies with a layer of snow - it will serve as an additional “insulating” material during periods of severe cold.

Features of preparing tree peony for winter

Throughout European territory In our country, tree peonies do not need to be covered for the winter, because, as a rule, they can overwinter just fine without shelter. But only if they grow in a quiet place where cold winds do not rage during the season. Moreover, at this time of year the ground can freeze to a depth of 0.8-1.0 m, and the street thermometer can drop to -28⸰С.

Young bushes of tree peonies must be covered for the winter. To do this, they are covered with a layer of peat (up to 20 cm thick), and an inverted bucket is placed on top.

Although many gardeners prune this type of peonies in the fall, experts believe that it is better to do all types of pruning of tree peonies in the spring.

Video: is it necessary to cover a tree peony for the winter.

Features of preparation for cold weather depending on the region

Different regions of our country have their own nuances in preparing peonies for winter. You should consider how to prepare these shrubs for winter in areas with different climatic conditions:

1. In Siberia Be sure to cover peonies for the winter using various mulching materials. Such shelter should be more solid than in warmer regions. Typically, cardboard boxes, buckets or plastic containers are placed on top of the mulch layer.
2. In the Urals covering peonies is also a must. Moreover, the sheltering process is similar to what is carried out in the Siberian regions.
3. In the Volga region You don’t have to cover peonies so carefully for the winter - just add a layer of mulching material.
4. In the middle zone (Moscow region) To properly prepare peonies for winter in open areas, it is better to cover them in case of a frosty, snowless winter.

Common mistakes

Many novice gardeners often make a number of mistakes when preparing peonies for the coming cold weather.

Let's note the most common ones:

• pruning too early - before the first frost;
• do not remove withered foliage in the fall, but do it at the beginning of the next season;
• in rainy weather, a liquid type of fertilizing is applied to this flowering perennial; as a result, not all fertilizers are “absorbed” by the roots;
• Peonies are not properly covered for the winter.

Video: proper pruning of peonies in the fall.

Preparing peonies for winter is very important process, the correct implementation of which determines how ready the bushes will be for the next season. Therefore, gardeners should pay attention to carefully following all the rules for preparing these flowering perennials for the cold season.

Treating peonies in spring and summer against diseases and pests is the first priority measure to combat these scourges. Most often, these plants are damaged by gray and root rot, rust and ring mosaic. Root-knot nematodes and ants cause no less harm to peonies. To protect crops from infections and pests or to cure already developed diseases, there are many drugs, and you will learn about the most effective of them from the table on this page.

Treatment of peonies for gray rot

Gray mold (Botrytis) — Botrytis paeonia Oud- the main and most widespread disease of peonies in our region. As a rule, symptoms of gray rot appear on peonies either in the spring (in central Russia - in the third ten days of April, especially intensively - in the wet season), or in the summer - in early autumn (when it rains and there is high air humidity, with increased soil acidity , excess nitrogen fertilizers, heavy clay soils, high level groundwater, thickened plantings, unventilated areas).

The most dangerous outbreak for plants is the spring outbreak of the disease, at the time of active growth of shoots.

As can be seen in the photo, with this disease, shoots with very soft tissues are affected at the place where the stems emerge from the ground:

A rotten dark area appears on the side of the stem. Very soon the stem falls. Black sclerotia are visible on rotting tissues.

In other years when high temperature During the period of active growth, gray rot of peonies affects the stems in the middle part: the plant bends in this place, the top withers. If the soil is carefully raked away, botrytis damage to the base of the stem will be noticeable on the underground part of the damaged shoot. This is thought to be the result of a short spring quickly turning into hot weather in May.

After sufficient regrowth and hardening of the stem tissues, in the third ten days of May, stunted and weak stems are mainly affected.

The second time the appearance of the disease can be observed in the summer-autumn period. The buds, sepals, and petals (at the base) rot, brown spots with a gray coating appear on the leaves, the stems and leaves darken and dry out. When cutting through a stem affected by the disease, brown rings are visible.

Let us note once again that the external manifestation of botrytis is facilitated by the cold season, rains and high humidity. In almost any adult plant, to one degree or another, traces of botrytis damage are noticeable in the underground part: on the remains of last year’s stems and in the zone of their transition to the rhizome, on old, roots starting to die. But with proper cultivation, its external manifestations will be absent or insignificant throughout the life of the plant.

To treat gray rot of peonies you need:

• compliance with the rules of planting and maintaining plants;
• periodic application of deoxidizing additives to the soil (bone, dolomite, limestone flour);
• removal and destruction of damaged parts of the plant;
• mandatory and timely complete pruning of stems in the fall;
• limited use of nitrogen fertilizers;
• the use of fungicidal drugs and agents for the prevention and suppression of disease.

Most fungicidal preparations produced by the chemical industry are suitable for combating botrytis. Among them are long-known and tested: all copper-containing ones, foundationazole, colloidal sulfur. Timing of their application: in the spring, at the beginning of active growth of stems, in our zone in the third decade of April, and then 1-2 more times with an interval of 10-12 days, depending on the weather and the degree of damage to the plants. It is necessary to strictly follow drug dosage recommendations and observe safety precautions.

To combat this peony disease, the following rules must be followed:

1. It is better to alternate different means, this contributes to their more effective action and reduces the accumulation of dangerous drugs in the soil. For example, you could alternate: foundationazole - 0.3% (or equivalent), oxychloride - 0.3% (copper sulfate - 0.5%) and potassium permanganate solution - 0.03%.
2. The concentration of preparations with a burning effect (copper sulfate) in the spring when spraying young plants should be half as much as for adults. At this time, young tissues are too soft and delicate and are easily damaged. Strive to use a minimum of chemicals to protect yourself, fauna and soil. If possible, use mistings, and when watering, only wet the top layer of soil above and around the plant using a watering can with small holes. Then you can limit yourself to the norm of 0.5-1.0 liters per peony. No watering the plant from above!

These photos show the treatment of peonies for gray rot disease:

Fighting root rot of peonies

Root rot. Peonies are also affected by pathogenic fungi from the genera Fusarium, Sclerotinia, Rhizoctonia, and Phytophtora. According to my observations, the disease is rare and it is quite difficult to distinguish between different rots. Externally, the disease manifests itself in the sudden blackening of the stems and their wilting in the middle of summer. The dug up roots look brown, softened to mucus, and emit an unpleasant odor. The affected bush is dug up and destroyed.

The causes of the disease are the same as for botrytis: wet weather, flooding of the site with melt and rain water, dense plantings, unventilated areas, acidic soils and replanting in a place previously occupied by peonies.

Control measures:

• use of healthy planting material;
• correct landing;
• use of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and microelements;
• To treat this disease of peonies, it is necessary to use fungicidal drugs: copper sulfate, Khoma, foundation (0.2%) and others indicated in the table.

Treatment of peonies for rust and spotting

Rust — Cronarium flaccidum (Alb. & Schw.) Wint. The disease appears in the summer, usually after. Brown or purple spots become visible on the upper side of the leaves, and orange-brown spots on the underside. Later the leaves dry out and curl. The stems appear undamaged. The host of the infectious agent is Scots pine.

Control measures:

• collecting and burning diseased leaves;
• spraying (wetting) the leaves with fungicidal preparations, the same as for gray rot. As a means of holding the drug on the leaf plates, it is recommended to add a solution of laundry or green soap and a pinch of washing powder.

Spotting. There are a number of different and difficult to distinguish diseases that affect peonies. They cause premature death of leaves and stems. Diseases actively develop at high humidity and temperature. Pathogenic fungi persist on plant debris.

Control measures:

• collecting and burning affected leaves and stems;
• spraying the entire plant with fungicidal preparations, as in the case of rust;
• thorough cleaning in the fall and burning of plant residues of peonies.

Peony mosaic disease: photos and videos of the fight against it

Ring mosaic virus (Ringsort virus) outwardly appears in the summer after the stems grow, before flowering. Symptoms depend on the variety and its species. Most often, rings, half rings and stripes appear on the leaves, yellow or lighter than the main color of the leaf plate. Otherwise the plant does not look depressed and blooms normally.

The disease is spread by cutting flowers in summer and cutting stems in autumn, as well as by insects sucking plant juice, in particular aphids. The disease is poorly studied and behaves rather mysteriously: it can disappear on a plant and then reappear after a few years.

Opinions about control measures are very contradictory: from the immediate destruction of the plant at the slightest manifestation of the disease to the option “do not touch the plant even if it is completely infected.” It is suggested that the disease exists in a latent form in many varietal peonies, without outwardly manifesting itself for many years.

Control measures. From the moment of regrowth, monitor the foliage of peonies very carefully. Typically, signs of the disease appear before the bush blooms, initially on just a few stems of the plant; the leaves of the remaining stems remain normally colored. The affected stems must be removed completely (unscrewed), and the wounds should be sprinkled with ash. Cut flowers and stems from the affected plant with a separate knife and burn. It often happens that no further traces of the disease appear. If the next year the damage to the plant by the ring mosaic virus is insignificant, repeat the above procedure.

See how the fight against peony disease is carried out in these photos:

If the disease does not disappear, but has captured most of the plant, it is dug up and destroyed. In all cases, if the appearance of a disease was noted on a peony at least once, in the future, when working with it, it is necessary to use a separate tool. Avoid varieties susceptible to the disease.

The video “Peony Diseases” demonstrates the most effective measures to combat diseases:

Below is how to get rid of nematodes and ants on peonies.

How to get rid of nematodes and ants on peonies

Ants. These insects are often considered pests of peonies. They say that ants suck the juice from the buds and, settling under the peony, destroy the plant. But many pin growers believe that if there is any harm from ants, it is very small. During the budding period, ants feast on the nectar that is on the bud. If this irritates you, wash the buds with warm water. However, in last years a new population of ants has appeared, which settle on the buds and greatly deplete them, interfering with flowering.

To get rid of ants on peonies as quickly as possible, you need to spray the buds with a fufanol solution. As for the settlement of ants under a peony, this means that the plant is seriously sick and severely rotten. And ants are not the reason, but a clear signal of trouble. Ants do not settle under a healthy peony. You will have to dig up such a plant and sort it out on the spot.

Preparations for treating peonies in spring and summer against diseases and pests

From the table below you will learn, Next you will learn how to treat peonies in spring and summer from diseases and pests.

Preparations for controlling diseases and pests of peonies

A drug	Diseases and pests of peonies	Processing condition and period	Processing method	Norm applications
Copper oxychloride (CHOM)	Botrytis, root rot	When symptoms of botrytis appear; when root rot appears	Watering under the base of the bush	0.5% solution with repeat treatment after 10 days
Copper vitriol	Botrytis	When symptoms of botrytis appear	Watering at the base of the bush; spraying the plant itself	0.5% solution (no more!), repeated after 10 days
Alirin	Root and basal rot, late blight	Before boarding	Entering into landing hole and 2-3 times watering during the growing season	1 tablet/1 liter of water
	Powdery mildew, late blight, anthracosis, septoria, gray rot	During the growing season	Spraying (2-3 times) until the symptoms of the disease disappear	2-3 tablets/1 liter of water. Effective at temperatures above 7 °C
Maksim	Gray rot, root rot	Before landing	Soaking the cuttings (for 30 minutes)	2 ml/2 l water
		During the growing season	Watering the soil	2 ml/1 l water
Fitosporin M	Fungal and bacterial diseases: rot, rust, powdery mildew	Before boarding	Soak delenok, tillage	10 drops / 200 ml water
		During the growing season	Spraying	20 drops / 200 ml water
	Powdery mildew, spotting, botrytis	Before boarding	Tillage	3-5 g/1 l water
		During the growing season	Spraying	1 -3 g/1 l water
	Root and basal rot, late blight	Before boarding	Tillage	1 tablet/l liter of water
	Bacterial spotting, late blight, powdery mildew, rot	During the growing season		2 tablets/10 liters of water
			Preventive spraying before and after flowering	2 tablets/l liter of water
	Fungal diseases	At the beginning of the growing season	Preventive double spraying	2-4 ml/10 l water
		In case of severe damage	Spraying	10 ml/10 l water
	Rust, powdery mildew, black spot, rot	During the growing season	Spraying	Prevention 5 ml/10 l water
			Processing leaves on both sides	10 ml/10 l water
	Insect pests In contact with

Tree peony (Paeonia x suffruticosa), or subshrub, is a hybrid species belonging to the genus peony of the peony family. There are scientists who are confident that they are not a species, but just a group different varieties and hybrid forms. To date, approximately 500 of them are known. Most of them can be found in China. The tree peony was created by Chinese breeders. But at the same time, Japanese breeders also began to grow this plant with great passion after it appeared on their islands during the Tang Dynasty. IN European countries this plant appeared in the 18th century, and was appreciated by both professional gardeners and amateurs.

Tree peony is a deciduous shrub whose height varies from 150 to 200 centimeters. Thick, erect shoots are pale brown. Unlike the herbaceous peony, the stems of such a plant do not wither in the autumn, but grow more and more every year, and over time the bush acquires a hemispherical shape. The ornamental, openwork leaves are double pinnate. The flowers are located at the ends of the stems and their diameter varies from 12 to 20 centimeters or more. Such flowers are double, semi-double and simple. They can be painted white, purple, yellow, pink, crimson, and also bicolor. With age, flowering becomes more abundant. The flowering of such a peony begins 2 weeks earlier than the herbaceous one, and its duration is 14–21 days. Such peonies are resistant to cold.

Types and varieties of tree peonies with photos

The various varieties of such plants are based on several natural species, namely: yellow, Potanin, Lemoine and Delaway, which are directly related to the group of semi-shrub peonies. Most of the registered varieties of such plants grow in China. These varieties are divided into 3 groups:

The flowers are very large and double. They weigh a lot and therefore are drooping. Flowers can be painted in various shades from fuchsia to light pink.

The flowers are not very large and light. They seem to hover above the bush.

Created from Delaway peony and yellow peony, the most popular varieties are those with yellow flowers.

The most popular varieties:

The pink inflorescences are painted in 2 colors, so one half is dark red and the other is creamy white. The flower reaches 16 centimeters in diameter.

The diameter of the light pink flowers with a dark crimson center is 18 centimeters. About 50 flowers can open on a bush at the same time.

The crown-shaped flowers are painted in 2 colors: white and salmon at the same time. In diameter they reach no more than 20 centimeters.

The shape of the flowers is very impressive and unique. It is a pale green bud.

Landing rules

Experts advise planting tree peony in open ground from mid-August until the last days of September. Before you start planting, you need to choose the most appropriate place. For this plant, you should choose a well-lit place, located at a not very high elevation. There should not be any buildings or trees in the immediate vicinity, as they will block the sun. Tree peonies prefer loamy soil. If it is sandy, then this can be corrected by adding humus, turf soil, clay, and peat. If the soil is clayey, then organic fertilizers and sand must be added to it. It is worth paying attention to the choice of location and soil Special attention, because this type of peony can grow in the same place for several decades (about 100 years).

Autumn planting

In the case when the groundwater is low, the hole for the flower must be made in the shape of a cone. In this case, the diameter of the hole at the soil surface should be 0.7 meters, its depth should also be 0.7 meters. Make a drainage layer 25–30 centimeters thick at the bottom of the hole; gravel, broken brick or sand are perfect for this. In acidic soil you need to add lime or bone meal from 200 to 300 grams. After this, soil is poured into a cone-shaped hole and the peony is placed on it. Then a large amount of water is poured into the hole so that the peony roots are properly straightened. When the liquid is completely absorbed, you need to pour such an amount of soil into the hole so that the root collar of the plant is placed flush with its surface. The distance between the bushes should be about 150–200 centimeters.

Growing tree peonies from seeds

If a tree peony is grown from a seed, its flowers can only be seen in the 5th–6th year of life. Since the embryo of these seeds is underdeveloped, they must certainly be subjected to a stratification procedure. Seeds cannot be stored for a long time, as they lose their viability. The stratification procedure has 2 stages. The first one is warm, and the second one is cold. Even if all the rules are followed, not everyone succeeds in growing a peony from a seed.

How to care

If you do not know the rules for caring for this type of peonies, you should care for it in the same way as for herbaceous peonies. So, it must be watered in a timely manner and after this procedure, it is imperative to loosen the soil and remove weeds. Watering should be done once every 2 weeks, and 1 bush should require 6 to 7 liters of water. If hot and dry weather sets in, the frequency of watering should be increased. From August onwards it is necessary to water less and less each time until it stops completely. When the plant is watered, the soil around the bush within a radius of 50 centimeters must be thoroughly loosened (loosening depth no more than 5 centimeters). Pull out all the weeds and sprinkle the soil with mulch (humus).

Fertilizer

These plants simply need large amounts of nitrogen and potassium for normal growth and development. When the period of intensive growth is just beginning, such plants need nitrogenous fertilizers, and from the moment budding begins until the growing season ends, tree peonies need large quantities phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. When the flowering period begins, the plant will need both phosphorus and potassium, and nitrogen. But we should not forget that excess nitrogen in the soil can cause the development of gray rot. In order not to burn the root system with fertilizers, before adding them to the soil, it must be thoroughly watered.

Trimming Features

Pruning must be carried out in the spring before the period of intensive growth begins. In this case, you need to cut off the dried stems. Old shoots must be trimmed so that about 10 centimeters remain. Flower growers in China have learned to rejuvenate tree peony. To do this, once every 20 years they cut the bush almost to the surface of the soil. As a result of this, adventitious buds awaken at the very base of the stems. In order for flowering to be more abundant next year, you need to trim the stems to the upper axillary bud. How long your peony will live depends on the correct pruning. These plants can live to a very respectable age, as a rule, up to a hundred years or even more. In China, there are specimens that are already over 500 years old, and they are protected both by specialists and by law.

This peony has a very negative attitude towards transplantation. So, it happens that a transplanted very strong plant can be sick for several years, because it is very difficult for it to recover. During the transplantation procedure, you need to be very careful with the bush. So, it must be very carefully dug out along with a lump of earth, which is then carefully washed off with a not very strong stream of water. Then you need to inspect the root system. If there are rotten roots, they should be cut off, and those that are too long should be shortened. It is necessary to treat the cut areas with a solution of potassium manganese (1%), and then sprinkle with crushed charcoal. If necessary, you can divide the rhizome, thereby multiplying the peony. To do this, you need to stretch parts of the bush to the sides with your hands at the root collar. If there are cuts on the rhizome, they must be processed. Each of the divisions should have roots and replacement buds (several pieces). Before cuttings are planted in open ground, they must be immersed in a clay mash for 30 minutes.

How to propagate by dividing a bush

How to propagate a peony by dividing a bush is described above. It should be remembered that only peonies whose age is older than 5–6 years can be divided, and this procedure must be carried out in August.

How to propagate by cuttings

For cuttings, semi-lignified shoots will be required. They need to be cut from mid-June. In this case, the cutting should contain the bud itself, a leaf and part of the wood of the stem. The sheet plate should be shortened by ½ part. Prepare the container by filling it with peat mixed with sand. Then a cutting is stuck into it to a depth of one and a half centimeters, and the container must be covered with a transparent film or glass on top. The cuttings must be provided with systematic watering, as well as moisture from a sprayer. In the last days of September, the cuttings must be transplanted into individual pots and placed in a greenhouse until the onset of spring. After the plants begin to grow, they will be ready to be transplanted into open ground.

It will take a couple of years to propagate the tree peony by layering. In May, before the bush begins to bloom, you need to select well-developed stems and make an incision on the side facing the soil. It is then treated with a root stimulating agent and a stake is inserted into it. After this, the shoot must be bent to the surface of the soil and buried to a depth of 8 to 10 centimeters. When watering the bush itself, do not forget to moisten the soil above the layer. In September, small roots should already have grown on the cuttings, and it can be carefully separated from the mother bush and planted in open soil in a permanent place.

Air layering can also be used for propagation. To do this, you need to make an incision on the stem and wrap it with moistened moss, and on top with film. It must be sealed tightly. As a rule, the roots grow by the end of the summer period. This method of reproduction, although very simple, is ineffective.

How to propagate by grafting

This method is the most highly effective, and it is widely used by specialists. But even a gardener can propagate this plant by grafting. For grafting, the root system of the herbaceous peony is used. To do this, in the first days of August, you need to cut cuttings with 2 buds from the tree peony. The bottom of the handle needs to be sharpened so that it takes on a wedge-shaped shape. Then, according to the shape of this wedge, a groove is made in the rhizome of the herbaceous peony and a cutting is inserted into it, which should fit very tightly. The graft must be wrapped tightly in film. Then these rhizomes need to be placed in a box, which should be filled with moistened sawdust. Place the box in the shade for storage. After 4 weeks, the grafted rhizomes should be planted in a container so that the eye located below is at a depth of 5 to 7 centimeters. The container is then transferred to the greenhouse. This peony grows from 1.5 to 2 years.

They are quite disease resistant. Most often, those peony bushes that get sick are those that are old or have recently undergone a transplant. Gray rot can destroy the plant. In order to get rid of it, you need to treat the bush with a solution of potassium permanganate (1.5 g of substance per 5 liters of water). You can also use a solution of copper sulfate (6–7%) for this purpose. However, before starting treatment, the affected shoots should be carefully cut off and destroyed.

It happens that bushes become infected with brown spot. Infected leaves should be torn off and destroyed to avoid further spread of the disease. Then the peony is treated with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%).

Tree peony after flowering

After flowering ends, you need to cut off the faded stems to the upper axillary bud so that they do not take away the strength of the bush. In autumn, before wintering, you need to fertilize. To do this, 200 grams of bone meal and 300 grams of wood ash must be added to the soil under each bush.

Preparing for winter

As mentioned above, tree peonies are not afraid of frost, but they still need to be covered for the winter. The fact is that during thaws in the spring, the buds that are in the open air wake up and the peony begins to grow. However, frosts that follow a thaw can cause the death of this plant. In this regard, in October it is worth preparing the bush for wintering. To do this, you need to tie the stems and sprinkle the tree trunk circle with a layer of mulch (peat). After the frosts begin, the bush must be covered by making a kind of hut over it from dry leaves, spruce branches and a fairly thick layer of fine bark. You can use jute bags for this.