Clematis leaves turn yellow in spring. Why do clematis leaves turn yellow? Clematis pests and ways to protect against them

Clematis turned yellow - how to cure? Read why the lower leaves of clematis turn yellow, what should I do to restore the plant?

Clematis lower leaves turning yellow

Clematis does not fit the place

If clematis suddenly began to turn yellow, it is likely that the root system has responded to a combination of selected care conditions. What to do? Move clematis to a comfortable place where lighting conditions, temperature indicators, air humidity would be organically combined with watering and top dressing.

Fungal whitening

A waterlogged root system is affected by a fungus. Rot can be non-infectious in nature, but also bring a lot of trouble. More often, diseases appear in early spring or after the transition to winter.

How to treat:

  • Bordeaux liquid.
  • Fungicides.
  • Transfer.

It is imperative to carry out a transplant so that it is possible to inspect and process the root system. It is necessary to cut off all damaged roots, sprinkling the wounds with fungicide powder. In the new soil mixture, try not to overmoisten the plant. If the fungus has spread to clematis leaves, then cut off the affected lower areas, burn them, and disinfect the wounds in the same way.

How to process : copper-containing preparations according to the sheet.

Viral diseases

Pests on clematis

  • Spider mite.
  • Sawfly (larvae).
  • Caterpillar.
  • Copperhead.

Prevention of the development of diseases

In the future, the state of clematis should be better monitored in order to protect or identify and eliminate the first signs of diseases. The plant is not waterlogged: water after watering drain 2 hours after the procedure. Check the soil mixture in the pot every time you are going to water - if it is still wet, then postpone the procedure.

In the spring, gradually increase the temperature without any sudden jumps. Similarly, to lower the temperature by winter - do not transfer to a cool place from heat. Periodically treat with "Fundazol" or other strengthening drug. Water with a solution of ash, treat with microelements, add manganese. The last component stimulates the restoration of the leaf plate.

Landing check soil acidity with acceptable indicators for clematis. . You can change the top layer of earth in a pot several times without transplanting.

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Quite often, when planting ornamental plants, you hope that they will bloom and please the eye. But sometimes it happens that the plant begins to hurt. In this case, you will not see any lush flowers or healthy bright leaves.

Did you know? Clematis varieties are registered by the Royal Horticultural Society, which is located in London.

Proper watering and soil care

Since clematis (clematis) are photophilous, thermophilic, love moist and fertilized soil, improper care of them can lead to a poor state of the plant or its death.


Let's start with watering. After planting, the plant should be watered every week in sufficient quantities. If hot and dry weather is established, watering is carried out every 5 days. After adaptation, the plant is watered every 8-9 days. When the ground at a depth of 20 cm near the clematis is dry, you need to water the plant.

In order for clematis to bloom profusely, the soil must be moistened to a depth of roots (60 cm). This, first of all, applies to bushes older than 5 years. You can do this like this: in a diameter of 30 cm from the bush, install containers with a hole in the bottom; after standard watering, fill them with water. Thus, the water will gradually seep into the ground and reach the desired depth.

Important! How older plant the worse it will bloom. Since every year the roots go deeper into the ground, it is almost impossible to moisten the ground at a depth of more than 80 cm.


We turn to proper soil care. After each watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil so that it does not become covered with a continuous crust. Since the plant needs moist and loose soil, then great option will be laying mulch. For mulching, humus sprinkled with peat is used. This mulch performs several functions at once: it keeps the earth moist, fertilizes the soil, protects the roots from freezing and provides shelter for beneficial organisms(earthworms).

Why won't clematis grow? Perhaps because, in addition to mechanical processing of the soil, it is also important to apply fertilizers. Clematis spends a lot of resources on flowering and sheds all above-ground vegetative mass before the cold weather. If you do not feed the plant 2 times a month, then it will start to wither very quickly. You need to make about 10 liters of nutrients per adult plant (or 2 small ones).

Important! Small-flowered clematis fertilize 2-3 times per season (3 months).

Consider the lack of important elements, and how it is displayed on the plant.

1. Lack of nitrogen. When clematis lacks this element, its leaves turn yellow and acquire a reddish tint, the flowers are small and discolored. Nitrogen is most needed by the plant in the spring. For top dressing, ammonium nitrate (15 g per 10 l of water) and slurry (1 part per 10 l of water) are used.

2. Lack of phosphorus. With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves turn brown with a purple tint. This element is introduced in September. For top dressing, use superphosphate (20 g per 10 liters of water) or bone meal (sprinkle the ground with the calculation of 200 g per 1 sq. M.).

3. Lack of potassium. It leads to darkening and blackening of the peduncle and pedicel, the edges of the leaves become light brown. This can be corrected by applying the following fertilizers: potassium nitrate (used in spring) or potassium sulfate (at the end of summer) in a ratio of 25 g per 10 liters of water.

Is cropping correct?

This section will help you understand the reason why clematis grow poorly. Since this plant sheds almost all ground mass for the winter, in the spring it needs to gain it very quickly. In this case, each extra branch or shoot can affect not only the number of flowers and their size, but also whether the bush will bloom at all.


Proper pruning reduces stress on the herbaceous plant in spring and rids the bush of dead and diseased branches. After the first year of vegetation, all bushes require heavy pruning. This way you stimulate the growth of new root shoots.

Important! If clematis does not develop well in the second year of the growing season, then in the fall a repeated “capital” pruning of the bush is carried out.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out depending on the plant group:

  • Early flowering. After flowering, faded shoots, sick and weak, are cut off.
  • Early summer flowering. This group includes clematis hybrids that re-bloom in August/September. Pruning is carried out in late autumn (sick, dry shoots are cut). They also carry out gentle pruning of last year's shoots by 2 mm.
  • Late flowering. These include clematis that bloom in summer and autumn. In this case, strong pruning is carried out (leave 20 cm from ground level). flowers in next year will appear on new shoots.

It is important to adhere to the pruning technique so as not to damage the plant: you need to cut the clematis with a sharp pruner just above the kidney.

Important! After pruning each bush, disinfection of the secateurs is required.

Is protection for the winter reliable?

How to protect the plant from frost and hypothermia? Many gardeners have difficulty wintering this plant. Clematis may freeze and die, or it will not bloom well.


There are several options for sheltering clematis for the winter:

  • dry;
  • air;
  • combined.
Dry shelter. Shoots for the winter are sprinkled with dry leaves or sawdust with a layer of 15 cm. Minus this method is that if sawdust or leaves get wet, they will begin to rot. Such an environment can damage hidden shoots.

Air cover. Shoots for the winter are covered with a film (they install a frame and stretch the film). If the winter is not snowy and warm, then the plant can simply overheat.

Combined method. First, sprinkle with sawdust, and then build a frame over the plant and stretch the film. This method will be the most optimal, since the roots will be protected from frost, and the film will not let in excess moisture.

Clematis pest control methods

The plant is not protected from pests, which in one season can simply destroy your bush. Pests cause significant damage to it: they damage buds, buds, leaves and carry dangerous diseases. Consider the most dangerous pests of clematis.

Nematodes

Important! The most dangerous for the plant is the root gall nematode.

It is impossible to get rid of nematodes, therefore the plant must be destroyed, and the soil must be disinfected (hot steam for 14 hours).

This pest hibernates under leaves and in cracks in the ground. The mite infects the foliage of the plant, which begins to curl and fall off. To fight, use an infusion of garlic (200 chopped onions per 10 liters of water).

beet aphid

Shchitovki

Like aphids, they feed on plant sap. To destroy scale insects use 40% ethanol with which the plants are washed every 10 days. Other pests (slugs and rodents) are destroyed by standard preparations or mechanical removal.

The main types of clematis diseases

Clematis has one feature - a well-developed root system that goes deep into the ground. Most often, because of this, these plants can die from various diseases. In this section, we will look at several ailments of this plant, figure out why clematis does not bloom, and how to solve this problem.

Did you know? Clematis is used medicinally as a stress-relieving and calming medicine.


Clematis rust is the appearance of orange pads on shoots, petioles and leaves. The disease appears in the spring. As the disease spreads, the leaves of the plant dry up and the shoots curl and become crooked.

The virus of this disease is a fungus that overwinters on shoots and infects growing shoots in spring. If rust-damaged leaves and shoots are not removed in time, clematis will develop poorly and may die. Rust on the leaves weakens the plant and negatively affects its wintering.

For prevention, we advise you to remove the weeds on which the pathogen most often overwinters. If it was not possible to protect the plant from rust, then at the first sign of it, damaged leaves and shoots should be removed, and then spray clematis with Bordeaux liquid.


Septoria (or leaf spot) is a common disease among plants. This "ailment" and clematis did not bypass. The causative agent of this disease is the Septoria fungus.

This disease is characterized by the fact that many small round spots of dark brown color appear on the upper leaf plates. The size of these spots is 2-5 mm. They are black on the edges. A little later, the affected area brightens, but the black rim remains. If black dots appear on a light spot, know that these are the fruiting bodies of the Septoria fungus along with spores. These spores spread throughout the bush. Affected leaves turn yellow and die off.

The plant remains without leaves, as a result of which physiological processes are disturbed. The affected plant practically does not bloom, is deprived of immunity and is prone to other fungal diseases.


If the fungus spreads, spots appear on the petioles and on new shoots, the young bark dies off, and the top dries up. The black fruit bodies of the fungus pass into the wintering stage and survive the winter well on fallen leaves and bark. The spread of this disease is facilitated by cold and wet weather.

In order to avoid infection with a fungus (Septoria), you need to collect and dispose of fallen leaves, and then treat the sections with garden pitch. If clematis grows in greenhouses, then you need to reduce the humidity of the air and increase the exposure of plants to sunlight.

This disease is caused by phytopathogenic erizif fungi.


The first symptom of powdery mildew damage is a white coating on clematis. Young leaves, buds, flowers and shoots are affected. Plaque can also appear on the stems and leaves of the plant.

After the raid, the first brown spots appear, the leaves and shoots dry and deform. Clematis suffer from this disease most often in July and August. Hot weather promotes the spread of the fungus. If clematis is ill with powdery mildew, all parts of the bush with a coating should be cut out and disposed of as soon as possible.

Important! You can not leave infected branches on the site, otherwise the disease will return.

The most dangerous disease of all these is Fusarium.

Clematis suffer from a fungal wilt called Fusarium. This disease penetrates through damaged and weakened tissues. The fungus clogs the conductive "vessels", and the metabolism of useful substances is disturbed. Fusarium wilt is observed in plant species with large flowers. Young plants are also under threat. The fungus grows in shoots damaged at the base. The affected areas wither, the leaves turn brown at the edges. High temperature +20...+ 30°C contributes to this. Signs of this disease appear in the second half of June.

For prevention, you should choose the right landing site. The fungus develops on flowers that grow in excessively moist areas.

Measures to combat this disease:

  • cut off all shoots at the base of the bush;
  • collect all fallen leaves and dispose off the site;
  • disinfect a diseased plant.
After this treatment, clematis has a chance to recover over time.

This disease affects flowers in rainy time. Brown spots appear on the leaves over time, as well as a gray fluffy coating.

This disease is caused by a fungus called botrytis. The main symptom of this disease is the appearance of plaque on the stem and petioles of the leaves. If the plant is affected by the fungus, then it begins to rot, and then completely dies.

To protect your flowers from the fungus, you should not allow stagnation of water in the ground and on the leaves.

Unfortunately, there is no reliable cure for the disease. If gray rot has spread to the plant, then the bush will have to be destroyed so that the fungus does not spread.

So that this disease does not affect clematis, you need to fertilize the plant with nitrogen supplements, water should be near the root of the bush. Spray the bush with a 0.2% solution of foundation.

Thus, if you fight pests in time, pruning and fertilizing the soil at the right time, the plant will feel great, delight you with luxurious flowers and healthy leaves.

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Care of clematis in the garden consists mainly in the correct placement of the growing shoots of the plant on a support and providing optimal conditions for growth and flowering.

Tying shoots. Vegetation in clematis begins when the average daily air temperature rises above 5 ° C. In the middle lane, this happens in the second half of April.

If the shoots of the previous year are preserved, they are lifted, leveled and evenly tied to the supports. Since young shoots break very easily when tied up, it is necessary to carry it out before the vegetative buds open.

The growth of new shoots begins in the first decade of May, but the strongest growth is observed in the second half of May - early June, when the average daily temperature exceeds 10 ° C: the length of the shoots increases by 7-10 cm per day. At the beginning of growth, when the leaves are still completely not turned around and the petioles are still short, new shoots cling poorly to the supports. They twist with each other and form dense plexuses, in which the shoots will later lack light. Such spontaneous interweaving of shoots can later become foci of various diseases and pests.

Watering. Most clematis are plants that require normal soil moisture. The lack of water is very dangerous for them in the spring, during the formation of new organs, as it causes a weakening of growth and flowering. Therefore, in the spring it is necessary to carefully monitor the soil moisture and water the plants in a timely manner.

The plant consumes the greatest amount of water in summer. The huge leaf surface promotes strong transpiration, especially on hot days. Therefore, a lack of water in summer for a plant can be fatal and lead to death, especially in southern zones countries. With enough water, clematis is able to tolerate high air temperatures well. At the same time, the temperature of the leaves remains within the normal range, the processes of assimilation proceed actively and the plant does not suffer. With a lack of water, overheating of the leaves occurs, a decrease in assimilation and, as a result, starvation of plants, which provokes the development of diseases. In the middle lane, watering is needed on average once a week, in the southern zones - much more often.

However, watering should not be carried out, guided only by calendar dates, not taking into account soil moisture. As you know, water in the soil is an antagonist of air. In waterlogged soils, there is not enough air, and therefore the roots are unable to function normally, that is, to provide plants with nutrients and water. Therefore, on waterlogged soils, the plant also dies as a result of starvation and the inability of the roots to absorb water.

For irrigation, it is better to use rainwater, river, lake or other sources, because the salt content in them is lower than in groundwater. The watering rate depends on the age of the bushes - in a 7-10-year-old plant, the roots reach a meter depth, spreading in a radius of up to 70 cm. ) can spread with water and infect healthy shoots. When watering the soil in the center of the bush, fungal spores in a moist, warm substrate multiply rapidly and can cause wilting. Therefore, the best watering for clematis is underground.

Soil loosening. Loosening is closely related to watering and even partially replaces it. As you know, the soil loses moisture not only in the process of transpiration by the plant, but also as a result of its own evaporation. To reduce it, loosening of the upper layer is carried out. At the same time, the soil is enriched with air, which is necessary for the intensive work of the roots and soil microorganisms.

The first small (2-5 cm) loosening is done in the spring to destroy the soil crust and the first weeds. Then loosening is carried out after each watering or each rain. To reduce this laborious work, a subsoil irrigation system is arranged or other methods are used. modern methods at which the soil is not compacted.

It is important to observe the right technology loosening. It is carried out when the soil is moist, but not wet or dry. When loosening wet soil, the correct coarse-grained structure is formed, and when loosening dry soil, it turns into dust.

Mulching. This technique partially replaces watering and loosening, since soil cover helps maintain moisture, improve temperature and aeration, destroy weeds, promote the reproduction of microorganisms and increase fertility.

When mulching does not form a soil crust and therefore there is no need for loosening.

Until mid-summer, mulched soil retains twice as much productive moisture as soil without mulch. Since mulched soil is looser, it is more water-intensive and retains more moisture after rains and watering.

On slopes, mulching delays soil erosion. Frequent watering leaches out nutrients, so mulching preserves soil fertility by watering less often. A lot of earthworms appear in the mulched soil, which, by making passages in the soil, help to improve the air regime.

When mulching, the soil does not overheat on hot days, and retains heat on cold days and nights.

Various materials can be used as mulch - peat, manure, humus, compost, moss, straw, leaves, sawdust, etc. Mulch the soil around the bushes without touching the shoots to protect them from fungal diseases.

For clematis, mulching with semi-rotted manure sprinkled with peat is very effective, especially where during the growing season the amount of precipitation exceeds evaporation. When mulching during rain or watering, clematis automatically receive good nutrition. This contributes to a strong growth of roots and shoots, abundant flowering and improves the color intensity of flowers. In winter, mulch protects the root system from freezing, especially when icy.

TO negative sides Mulching refers to the appearance of rodents if straw or leaves are used as mulch. Rodents can damage shoots and roots. When mice appear, poisoned baits should be used.

If sawdust, straw, leaves are used for mulching, they must be watered with a solution of mineral nitrogen fertilizers, since these materials are decomposed by microorganisms that use soil nitrogen, as a result of which the plants lack this element.

Fertilizer. Compared with other woody plants, clematis has two features: abundant long-term flowering and annual renewal of almost the entire above-ground mass of vegetative organs - shoots and leaves. This plant consumes a large number of nutrients. That is why it is necessary that in the soil they are in sufficient quantity and in the right proportions. This is achieved by applying the main fertilizer, as well as by regular fertilizing with mineral fertilizers in certain phenophases.

The issue of fertilizing clematis is currently not well researched. Therefore, the timing, methods, doses and types of fertilizers are recommended based on the general biological characteristics of flowering plants.

For normal growth and development of clematis, it needs 16 elements. Three of them - carbon (C), hydrogen (H) and oxygen (O) - the plant receives from the air in the process of assimilation, as well as with the help of the root system from the soil.

Carbon is an important element in organic matter. It enters the plant in the form of carbon dioxide through the stomata on the leaves and through the root system.

Oxygen is involved in the processes of biological oxidation, due to which plants receive the energy necessary for their life. A plant receives oxygen through leaves from the air and with the help of roots from water and various chemical compounds. Therefore, it is very important that the soil air is sufficiently enriched with oxygen. To do this, it is always necessary to maintain a coarse-grained soil structure with the help of proper cultivation.

The plant receives hydrogen from the water with the help of roots and uses it to form almost all organic compounds.

The remaining 13 elements of the plant are obtained mainly with the help of roots from the soil. Depending on the amount of these elements absorbed by the plant, there are: macroelements - nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), sulfur (S) and microelements - iron (Fe) , manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), cobalt (Co).

For clematis, the greatest need for nitrogen is observed in the phase of strong shoot growth. Nitrogen promotes cell division and delays the aging and lignification of their walls.

Due to the fact that the growth of clematis shoots occurs during the entire growing season, nitrogen must be in sufficient quantities in the soil. However, the bulk of the shoots are formed in the spring. Therefore, the plant consumes the greatest amount of nitrogen during this period. In the second half of summer, nitrogen doses are reduced by half. Large doses of nitrogen applied at the end of the growing season can delay the maturation of shoots, prepare the plant for a dormant period and reduce its winter hardiness.

Very large doses of nitrogen also reduce the plant's resistance to diseases and pests. In this case, the shoots grow strongly, the internodes lengthen, the leaves are usually large and soft.

The main sources of nitrogen are manure, humus, peat, green manure (annual plants with a large green mass and insecticidal and fungicidal properties - marigolds, marigolds, etc.). Additionally, during the growing season, slurry (1-2 l), bird droppings (0.5-1 l), grass infusion (1-2 l) and mineral fertilizers (15-30 g) are used. Before making the specified amount of fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water. In spring, it is best to use ammonium nitrate (34.6% nitrogen) or calcium nitrate (18% nitrogen). On soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, ammonium sulfate (21% nitrogen) is used. Urea (46.1% nitrogen) can be used as a root and foliar liquid top dressing. Ammonium chloride (25% nitrogen) is not recommended, as clematis is sensitive to chlorine.

With a nitrogen deficiency, the leaves become smaller, lighter, turn yellow with a reddish tinge; shoots, as a rule, small, with short internodes, do not grow. The number of buds decreases sharply, the flowers are small and poorly colored. Varieties from the groups Patens, Lanuginoza, Florida, in which abundant flowering is observed on last year's shoots in June, sometimes there is a lack of nitrogen after the first flowering. With the introduction of optimal doses, growth normalizes, buds form on the shoots of the current year and flowering continues.

Phosphorus is an essential element involved in life processes. It activates the process of carbohydrate synthesis, assimilation, the formation of chloroplasts and the synthesis of chlorophyll.

In order for all physiological processes of plant life to proceed normally, it is important not only the amount of each element, but also the correct ratios between them, especially phosphorus and nitrogen, as well as phosphorus and iron.

Basic batteries

Phosphorus deficiency causes leaves to turn brown and turn purple. Shoots develop poorly and ripen, winter poorly. The formation of flowers and the ripening of seeds are disturbed, which is very important in the selection of clematis.

Phosphorus deficiency is eliminated by the introduction of phosphate fertilizer - superphosphate, bone meal, etc.

Usually, an excess of phosphorus in the soil is more often observed, which causes premature aging of the plant. Phosphorus is an antagonist of many other elements in the soil, especially iron, copper, magnesium, potassium, etc. Therefore, an abundance of phosphorus often causes chlorosis in clematis. To eliminate it, ferrous sulfate is added every 10-15 days. Phosphorus fertilizers are inactive and accumulate in the soil with frequent application.

For basic soil dressing, you can use organic phosphorus fertilizer - bone meal (contains up to 9% phosphorus) or mineral fertilizers - simple superphosphate (8.7% phosphorus) or double (22% phosphorus). After planting clematis, if the optimal dose is given during soil preparation, superphosphate is applied only in the second year in the fall.

Potassium activates the synthesis of organic substances in cells, maintains osmotic pressure in tissues, promotes the flow of water into cells, and reduces transpiration.

Potassium deficiency causes browning of leaf margins, especially older ones. Peduncles and pedicels of buds turn brown and even blacken. The buds bend down and die. The color of the flowers is brighter. Often, a lack of potassium is observed in profusely flowering varieties (Ville de Lyon, etc.).

Excess potassium causes shortening of internodes, yellowing of old leaves, bud formation and flowering are disturbed, flower color deteriorates, roots are damaged, growth stops, absorption of calcium, magnesium, and manganese is disrupted.

Potassium mineral fertilizers are not washed out of the soil as easily as nitrogen fertilizers. In the spring it is best to use potassium nitrate (38% potassium and 14% nitrogen). Potassium sulfate (45% potassium) is used as the main and additional fertilizer.

Calcium necessary for physiological processes, cell building and for the neutralization of organic acids. It also regulates the acidity of the soil and prevents the harmful effects of aluminum and iron ions on the plant, improves the structure and other physical properties of the soil, and activates microbiological processes in it.

Most calcium is found in leaves and shoots - 0.16-^ 0.32%, therefore, calcium deficiency disrupts the growth of roots and shoots, they are deformed, their ends soften, darken and even die. Clematis need calcium most of all in the phase of intensive growth.

With a lack of calcium, lime, chalk, dolomite flour, calcium nitrate and other physiologically alkaline fertilizers, such as stove ash, are added. Calcium nitrate should not be used on neutral or alkaline soils as it binds iron, manganese and boron.

With an excess of calcium, plants age prematurely, their leaves fall off and the intensity of flowering decreases.

Calcium is an antagonist of many elements in the soil and prevents their penetration into plants. Thus, an excess of calcium in the soil leads to a deficiency of potassium, magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc, and boron. So, for example, in plants of the Nelly Moser variety, toxicosis was observed, caused by the predominance of calcium in the ratio K:Ca:Mn 1:21:3.5 (normal ratio 1:8:2).

Magnesium in plants it is part of chlorophyll, is found in plasma and cell sap. It participates in the processes of photosynthesis and respiration, activates enzymes and the synthesis of carbohydrates. The intake of phosphorus and its movement in the plant is impossible without magnesium.

Magnesium deficiency causes chlorosis, i.e. yellowing of the leaves. Initially, a characteristic mosaic color appears on the lower leaves, the veins remain green. Later, dry necrotic spots appear, small at first, but later covering the entire surface of the leaf. The flowers are small, slightly colored. The edges of the leaves curl up. In clematis, magnesium deficiency is most often observed on sandy and sandy soils in the second half of summer after the first flowering.

by the most a good remedy for the treatment of magnesium chlorosis is magnesium sulfate, which is used for top dressing, including foliar.

An excess of magnesium causes damage to the roots, slows down their growth, the formation of a root lobe and, in connection with this, the absorption of nutrients, and the growth of shoots decreases. Magnesium is an antagonist of calcium, potassium and iron.

Sulfur is an indispensable element of nutrition. It is part of all protein substances, amino acids, enzymes and vitamins. Most of all (70%) sulfur is in chloroplasts.

With a lack of sulfur leaves turn yellow. Unlike nitrogen starvation, with sulfur deficiency, the lower leaves do not die off. First, the youngest leaves turn yellow, later others, necrotic spots appear along the edges.

The lack of sulfur is eliminated by the introduction of sulfur-containing fertilizers - ammonium sulfate, calcium sulfate (gypsum), etc. All of them are physiologically acidic, therefore they are effective on carbonate, as well as on neutral and slightly acidic soils. Sulfur enters plants from the air through the leaves in the form of dioxide.

Although iron is not part of chlorophyll, it plays an important role in the synthesis of chlorophyll.

Iron deficiency causes chlorosis, which starts from the upper leaves and gradually goes down. The veins remain dark green, and light chlorotic spots appear between them, the tissue dies off along the edges of the leaves. The plants bloom, but the flowers are abnormally light in color.

An abundance of calcium in the soil leads to a lack of iron. There are temporary and chronic chlorosis.

The first form is often observed in spring, when the roots are weakly functioning due to the low temperature of the soil or there is a lot of phosphorus in the soil. Later, when the soil warms up, chlorosis disappears.

The chronic form of chlorosis is caused by an abundance of calcium, i.e., the alkaline reaction of the soil. Due to the fact that in clematis the root system penetrates into the deep layers of the soil, it is able to absorb calcium from there. Therefore, there is no special need for a strong liming of the upper layers of the soil, since this causes plant chlorosis.

On infertile soils, chlorosis can cause an excess of copper or a lack of moisture in the soil, as a result of which the plant does not receive enough iron.

Chlorosis as a result of iron deficiency is also observed in such varieties of clematis as Yellow Queen, Lasurstern, Nelly Moser, Gipsy Queen, etc. The addition of ferrous sulfate (20 gna10 water) 3-4 times in 10 days eliminates chlorosis.

The toxic effect of iron is observed only on strongly acidic soils at a pH below 5. In this case, the leaves become dark or blue-green, necrosis (death) begins without preliminary symptoms. The growth of shoots and leaves is slowed down. Despite the increase in leaf pigmentation, the intensity of assimilation decreases, but respiration increases.

An excess of iron can lead to a deficiency of phosphorus, manganese, zinc, copper and molybdenum in plants. The optimal reaction of the soil reduces the toxicity of iron.

Manganese participates in the assimilation process, activates enzymes, increases plant resistance to high temperatures. Manganese deficiency causes chlorosis of the plant with the same symptoms as iron deficiency, but simultaneously on young and old leaves.

Manganese deficiency is more often observed on carbonate soils. It is eliminated by the introduction of manganese sulfate (contains 19.8%).

An excess of manganese makes it difficult for iron to enter plants. The optimal ratio of iron and manganese in the soil is 5-10:1. With increasing acidity, the iron content increases (10:1). When top dressing, the optimal ratio of iron and manganese is 7-8: 1.

Zinc is part of many enzymes, participates in the synthesis of growth stimulants and promotes the process of photosynthesis.

Zinc deficiency is often observed on over-calcified soils, where iron and manganese deficiency often occurs. Excess phosphorus also causes zinc deficiency. At the same time, the length of internodes decreases in clematis and growth stops. The addition of zinc sulfate (22.8% zinc) eliminates these symptoms.

Copper is part of many enzymes that contribute to redox processes; involved in photosynthesis and metabolism.

Copper deficiency is most often observed at high doses. fresh manure or humus, since copper is easily bound by organic substances.

Copper deficiency is eliminated with copper sulfate (25.4% copper).

Bor takes part in metabolism, promotes cell division and the development of generative organs.

It has been established that in the stigmas of pistils there is increased content boron, which promotes the germination of pollen.

Boron deficiency often occurs with frequent watering, as this element is washed out of the upper soil horizon. Boron deficiency is eliminated by adding boric acid (17.5% boron).

Excess boron most often occurs after abundant fertilization with manure and slurry.

Molybdenum participates in the exchange of oxygen and promotes the absorption of calcium.

The lack of molybdenum retards growth, generative shoots develop poorly.

The deficiency is eliminated by adding sodium molybdate (40% molybdenum) or ammonium molybdate (44% molybdenum).

Overview of the meaning of individual elements. nutrition indicates that a certain amount of both macro- and microelements is required for the normal development of a plant. The absence of any element or its excess causes a violation of the growth and development or disease of the plant. Only the optimal ratio of macro- and microelements ensures abundant flowering and viability of clematis.

The amount of nutrients a plant receives depends not only on their content in the soil, but also on the development of the root system and on the physical properties of the soil.

If the soil is well reclaimed, loose and rich in humus, the clematis root system penetrates to a depth of 80-100 cm. On podzolic, clay, gley soils, the root system develops in a layer of up to 30 cm and cannot provide the plant with sufficient nutrients. On well-cultivated soils, the total root mass is 3 times greater than on poorly cultivated ones. In sandy and loamy soils, the bulk of the roots (50-70%) is located in a layer up to 20 cm. With depth, the number of roots gradually decreases: at a depth of 20-50 cm it reaches 25-34%, deeper than 50 cm - 5-17% of the total mass roots.

Despite the fact that in the deep layers the mass of roots is not particularly large, their functional role quite significant. They contribute to uniform nutrition and water supply in dry weather. The radius of distribution of the clematis root system in width reaches about 60-70 (100) cm from the center of the bush. Old plants have a very dense root system. The roots are located close to each other, which makes it difficult to provide the plant with nutrition. In these cases, it is necessary to divide the bush or apply a fertilizer solution to a depth of 10-40 cm at least once a week. For this, a special drill is used, with the help of which vertical wells with a diameter of 10-15 cm are made. They are filled with coarse gravel, crushed stone or fascines from branches.

The distribution of nutrients in different soil horizons is not the same. Most of them are at a depth of 0-30 cm.

Since phosphorus is an inactive element, the difference in its content across soil horizons is especially noticeable. In the upper layers, the amount of phosphorus is 10-20 times greater than in the lower ones, especially in poorly cultivated soils, where the toxic effect of large doses of this element is often manifested. In well-cultivated aerated soils, the distribution of nutrients over the horizons does not have strong differences, and therefore the root system develops in depth. On such soils, the vitality of plants is high, flowering is annual and plentiful.

Pruning. Necessary for obtaining long-term and abundant flowering, controlling the timing of flowering, biological renewal of the bush and a harmonious spatial distribution of shoots.

The degree of pruning depends on the difference in the biological properties of clematis from different systematic groups. Depending on the features of pruning and the intensity of flowering, clematis are grouped into three groups.

The first cropping group. This group includes clematis, in which flowers are formed on the shoots of the previous year. On the shoots of the current year, sometimes flowers appear in small quantities. This group includes species and varieties of the group Atragene, Montana, etc., which are grown without pruning or cut off the generative part of the shoot after flowering. If the bush is very dense, some of the faded, weaker shoots are cut to the ground. This encourages the development of more vital current year shoots that will bloom next year.

Before shelter for the winter, only the generative part of the shoots of the current year is cut off and weak shoots are completely cut out.

The second trim group. This group includes clematis, in which flowers develop both on the shoots of the current year and on last year's shoots. These include groups Lanuginosa, Florida, Patens. They have early

flowering in late May - June on the shoots of the previous year, the flowers are large, the flowering time is short. The second, or summer, flowering occurs on the shoots of the current year. It is plentiful, begins in July and lasts until autumn.

To ensure long flowering, pruning is carried out in two steps. First, in the summer, the generative part of the shoot of the previous year is cut off after flowering; if the bush is very thick, cut out the entire shoot.

The shoots of the current year are pruned before shelter for the winter. Depending on the density of the bush or to obtain early flowering next year, various degrees of pruning are used. Only the generative part of the shoot of the current year is removed if they want to achieve early flowering. This method is used in clematis breeding to lengthen the seed ripening period.

The average degree of pruning - to the first true leaf, strong - the removal of the entire shoot is used when adjusting the number of shoots and the uniformity of flowering in the next year.

The third trim group. This group includes clematis, in which the bulk of the flowers are formed on the shoots of the current year. These include the Jackmanii groups. Viticella, Recta. They bloom from July to mid-September. The maximum flowering is observed in late July - August.

Pruning this group is very simple: before sheltering for the winter, all shoots are cut off to the first true leaf or to the base.

This group also includes herbaceous and semi-shrub clematis, in which the shoots die off at the end of the growing season. The next year they grow back without pruning. However, uncut dead shoots impair the decorative effect of the bush, so it is better to cut them off in the fall to the base of the shoot.

Clematis pruning is also used to limit the spread of diseases. This is usually done at the main pruning when all diseased shoots are removed, but sometimes it is also necessary to cut out diseased shoots during the growing season to limit the disease.

When propagating by cuttings, it is also necessary to cut clematis bushes during the growing season. After pruning, the bushes are fed with mineral fertilizers to enhance the growth of shoots.

Separate shoots are pinched when it is necessary to delay flowering. When breeding, pruning methods are combined in order to achieve earlier flowering for pollination, sometimes late, and good seed ripening. Often this reduces the intensity of flowering. For a good harvest and obtaining full-fledged seeds, flowering has to be limited.

Clematis are in bloom and everything seems to be fine, but if you look closely, one of the leaves is covered with rusty spots, the other has a white coating, and the third has dried out individual shoots. Lyubov Treivas, a well-known phytopathologist, tells about diseases and pests of clematis.

Clematis diseases

wilting clematis

All clematis have the same feature: these plants have a well-developed root system that extends into deep soil horizons. The most dangerous fungal disease of clematis is also associated with this feature - wilting, in which shoots quickly lose turgor, wither and dry. There are several causative agents of this disease, and they all live in the soil, where they infect the root system.

Wilting symptoms are often visible already in early spring after a mild winter with frequent thaws. The spread of root rot and further wilting is facilitated by stagnant water, increased soil acidity and shading of plantings.


There is only one secret of protection: comply with all agrotechnical requirements. When wilting appears, it is necessary to clean the plants from the affected parts and shed the plants under the root 2-3 times with a 0.2% solution of foundationazole (benlat). In the future, to prevent the disease, every spring and autumn it is necessary to shed the plants with a solution of foundationazole. This drug effectively slows down the development of fungal pathogens, but does not completely cure. Severely affected, rotten clematis are removed with a clod of earth and the soil must be drunk with a solution of foundationol.

Gray rot, powdery mildew and rust are a group of diseases that manifest as raids. Gray rot affects clematis in rainy years and appears as brown, rapidly growing spots on leaves and shoots. At high air humidity, brown necrosis is covered with gray fluffy mycelium and spores, which are carried by the wind and re-infect neighboring leaves. And since the botrytis mushroom is omnivorous, gray rot from clematis spreads to other flowering plants.

To prevent the appearance of gray rot, they collect plant debris, cut off the affected leaves and shoots, spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of azocene or foundationol. Positive effect gives the carrying out of the straits of plants in spring and autumn with foundationazole.


Powdery mildew is caused by pathogenic fungi from several genera and manifests itself from mid-summer with a white powdery coating on almost all above-ground parts, but physiologically young tissues are primarily affected - young shoots, leaves, buds and flowers. Under the influence of the mycelium, the tissues turn brown, dry out, the organs are deformed, the growth and flowering of plants stop.

Plaque on clematis leaves

Protective measures should be started at the first symptoms of the disease, without waiting for the leaves and buds to dry. Topaz, azocene, fundazol are effective for this. You can use a copper-soap solution ( blue vitriol 20-30 g + green soap 200-300 g per 10 liters of water) or a solution of soda ash (40 g, or 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), infusion of mullein, hay dust, a solution of whole cow's milk and so on.

Clematis rust is manifested by orange sporulation pads on shoots, petioles and leaves since spring. With a strong spread, the shoots of plants are deformed, and the leaves turn brown and dry. The fungus-causative agent hibernates on the shoots or on the wheatgrass weed and in the spring again infects the growing shoots. Premature drying of the vegetative parts greatly weakens the plant and affects its overwintering.

At the first signs of rust, spraying is carried out with a 1-2% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (polych, oxych, copper oxychloride).


Often closer to autumn, dark gray is noticeable on weakened plants. necrosis of leaves and shoots covered with a velvety olive bloom. Physiologically old parts are affected mainly. Causes necrosis fungus saprotroph of the genus Alternaria, which naturally develops on dying tissues. But with a strong spread, the fungus also passes to young tissues, causing premature drying of plants. Any copper-containing preparations are effective against alternariosis.

leaf spot

leaf spot clematis begin to appear in mid-summer and are visible until late autumn. The most common of these is ascochitosis. The fungus pathogen from the genus Ascohita causes dark brown spots (necrosis), often irregular in shape, sometimes merging with each other, with pronounced zoning.

On necrotic tissue, black fruiting bodies ripen in autumn - pycnidia, in which the fungus overwinters. With cylindrosporiosis (causative agent cylindrosporium), characteristic ocher-yellow spots appear on the leaves, limited by leaf veins. A fungus from the genus Septoria causes septoria leaves, manifested by rounded light gray spots with a thin reddish border. By autumn, black dotted pycnidia ripen along dying tissues.

Loss of necrotic tissue is observed in all spotting, so spotting cannot be distinguished by this feature. Spotting fungi cause damage to leaf blades, which leads to disruption of all processes associated with photosynthesis, and inevitably leads to a general weakening of plants. The appearance of spots should not be considered only as a loss of decorativeness. blooming clematis. This is the beginning of general oppression, a decrease in buds, the initiation and maturation of hibernating organs.

Viral disease of clematis

Protective measures are simple - collection of affected plant residues (leaves) and spraying with any copper-containing preparations. In early spring and autumn, at the end of the growing season, a 1% solution of copper or iron sulfate is used, and during the growing season they are sprayed with a 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes.

Viral diseases rare on clematis. Some varieties may develop a yellow mosaic of leaves, which is transmitted by sucking pests. To cure this disease effective drugs no, therefore all diseased plants are recommended to be culled.

To prevent the spread of a viral infection, plants that are often affected themselves should not be planted next to clematis - aquilegia, delphinium, host, peony, phlox, sweet pea, bulbous.

Pests

Sometimes nematodes also spread on clematis, i.e. damage by phytohelminths. There is a gall nematode - meloidogyna, which forms brown swellings-galls on the roots, which eventually cause root rot, and then the death of the plants themselves. Leaf nematodes are also common, living in leaf blades and causing various necrosis.

When digging up rotten plants, be sure to look at the root system and if galls are present, do not plant new clematis plants in this place for several years.


And remember that the appearance of both diseases and numerous pests are the first signs of a violation of clematis cultivation or the use of a variety that is not suitable for your conditions. It is from this that oppression of development and a decrease in immunity to diseases begin in clematis.


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