To get a rich harvest, we suggest that you keep this quick fertilizer reminder.

Soil acidity

The acidity of the soil is important for the absorption of fertilizers. For the growth and proper development of plants, the pH should be at the level of 6.5.

In alkaline soils, where pH > 7, elements necessary for plants are poorly assimilated: phosphorus, iron, zinc, manganese.

Acidic soils with pH = 4-5.5 hinder the absorption of calcium, potassium, magnesium, phosphorus and sulfur.

pH scale

To determine the pH using an analyzer, you need to make several holes throughout the area, fill them with distilled water and, each time wiping the probe, measure the indicators. Next, calculate the average, which should be guided.

You can determine the acidity of the soil without equipment using vinegar and soda. To do this, you need to collect land in two containers. Pour vinegar into one, distilled water into the other and pour soda on top. If the reaction went in the first container, the earth is alkaline, if soda hissed, it is acidic.

You can neutralize the acidity of the soil by adding wood ash, slaked lime, ground limestone, shell rock or chalk. Application rates: 250-600 g/m2 depending on soil type.

You can acidify the soil with organic matter. But for heavy clay soils, ferrous sulfate, sulfur and ammonia fertilizers are used according to the manufacturer's instructions. The introduction of organic fertilizers to acidify clay soils will have the opposite effect.

ORGANIC FERTILIZERS

These are natural natural fertilizers of plant or animal origin. In addition to changing the structure of the soil, they have a positive effect on its chemical composition, enriching the soil with elements necessary for plants.

Manure

Under the general term "manure" lies a variety of organic fertilizers. This fertilizer enriches the earth with calcium, potassium, nitrogen, manganese, sulfur and phosphorus.

IMPORTANT! Do not use fresh manure, as in the process of decay it releases substances that are harmful to plants.

In rotted form, manure is suitable for most horticultural crops.

Cow dung contains a lot of potassium, calcium and nitrogen. They bring it in the fall for deep digging 3-4 kg / m 2.

Rabbit manure and bird droppings are rich in nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. It is embedded in the ground in autumn at 300-400 g / m 2.

Horse, sheep and goat manure is a source of nitrogen and potassium, has a short decomposition time and high heat transfer, which makes it a valuable fertilizer for greenhouses. They bring 4-6 kg / m2, embedding in the ground during autumn or spring digging.

Pig manure is useless. There are few nutrients in it, and it itself can cause various infections.

Ash

Wood ash contains phosphorus, potassium, manganese, magnesium, molybdenum, zinc, sulfur and a large number of calcium. Ash contributes to the growth and proper development of plants, improves their winter hardiness, and also helps to absorb nutrients. Suitable for fertilizing almost all types of fruit and vegetable crops. Application rates: 300-500 g/m 2 . Ash cannot be used for blueberries, rhododendrons and azaleas.

Peat

Peat makes the soil breathable and comfortable for plant growth. For these purposes, low-lying peat with a high degree of decomposition or treated with lime is used. Peat is rich in humus. The use of peat is justified only in the case of infertile soils. Peat is introduced after digging, interfering with the topsoil, or used as mulch throughout the season. Application rate: 4-8 kg/m 2 .

Mineral fertilizers

These are products of the chemical industry. Useful substances in them are in a concentrated state. Mineral fertilizers are divided into simple and complex (complex).

SIMPLE FERTILIZERS

nitrogen fertilizers

Nitrogen fertilizers significantly increase yields and make plants resistant to pests and some diseases. This type of fertilizer is suitable for all crops except legumes. Nitrogen mineral fertilizers, especially their nitrate form, contribute to the accumulation of nitrates in the soil.

Nitrogen urea, better known as urea, is the leader in nitrogen content among nitrogen fertilizers. It contains up to 45% of this substance. Urea is added only deepening, otherwise the nitrogen will begin to evaporate. Application rates depend on the plant - for example, 10 g / m 2 is enough for cucumbers, 20 g / m 2 for tomato and pepper.

Ammonium nitrate contains up to 35% nitrogen. They bring it in advance, even before the soil thaws, at the rate of 15-20 g / m 2.

cyanamide contains 19% nitrogen. They bring it into the still frozen soil due to the slow decay.

sodium nitrate contains up to 17% nitrogen, but it is well absorbed even in acidic soils. Saltpeter is added at 30-35 g/m 2 . Suitable for feeding plants with a formed root system.

Phosphate fertilizers

Simple superphosphate contains up to 25% phosphorus, double superphosphate - about 50%. A month before the introduction of superphosphate, ash is introduced into the soil. The norm for seedlings is 30 g / m 2, in greenhouses - up to 100 g / m 2.

Phosphorite flour used in acidic soils. Increases the plant's immunity to pests and cold weather. In addition to phosphorus, this fertilizer is rich in calcium. Bring it in the fall, before frost. Consumption - 50 g / m2. Phosphorus fertilizers are especially necessary for flowering plants.

Potash

Potassium chloride is suitable for potatoes, beets and almost all cereals. applied to the soil during autumn digging. During the winter, chlorine is washed away, leaving useful potassium in the ground. Application rates - 25 g / m 2.

Potassium sulfate contains up to 50% of the active substance and, unlike potassium chloride, does not contain chlorine. This is one of the favorite cucumber fertilizers. It is applied during spring digging at the rate of 30 g/m 2 .

COMPLEX FERTILIZERS

Nitrophosphate (nitroammophoska) It contains three main substances: nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Their exact ratio depends on the manufacturer. The use of nitrophosphate not only cures plants, but also prevents the development of diseases such as scab, black leg, and powdery mildew. The increase in yield when using this complex can reach 70%. The taste of fruits is improved. For potatoes and vegetable seedlings, it is enough to add 20 g / m 2, strawberries require up to 40 g / m 2.

Nitrophoska- This is a slightly different version of the nitrophosphate formula. This fertilizer complex is based on the same phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen.

Ammophos contains potassium, magnesium and phosphorus. This complex is also for greenhouses. Increased resistance of plants to diseases and pests. When digging the soil, the application rate is 20-30 g / m2 in open field and in greenhouses - up to 50 g / m 2.

Diammophos— universal fertilizer for all types of soils. Contains phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. Provides plant resistance to diseases, pests, adverse weather conditions. Fertilizer is applied in the spring for digging at 20-30 g / m 2 in open ground and up to 40 g / m 2 - in greenhouses.

Signs and symptoms of lack of fertilizer

Symptoms	Application required
Red-violet hiring on leaves Leaves fly around early Plant stunted	Phosphorus R Diammophos 30 g / m 2 or nitrophoska 25-30 g / m 2
Leaves covered in spots The edges of the leaves twist, wrinkle, die off	Magnesium M g Stop Potassium Application* Dolomite flour 20-30 g/m2 Magnesium sulfate 10-30 g/m 2
The edges of the leaves are burnt Dead zones appear	Potassium Potassium sulfate 10-20 g/m 2 Potassium chloride 10-30 g/m 2
Plant - emaciated, yellowed bad bloom Poorly developed lower leaves	Nitrogen Carbamide 20-DO g/m 2 Azofoska 40 g/m 2
The plant is not growing well

Plant care continues after harvest. It is at the end of summer and autumn that the soil should be “filled” with fertilizers, which will create a supply of nutrients for the next season. How much and what kind of fertilizer should be applied to the beds in the fall?

autumn top dressing"dacha flora" pursues several goals at once. Firstly, this way the plants more easily tolerate the destructive winter frosts. Secondly, this is a good start for next spring, when trees and shrubs will be in dire need of nutrients. Thirdly, fertilizers contribute to the protein-carbohydrate synthesis of plants and other processes occurring inside them. Fourth, you have the opportunity to make complex fertilizers and calculate their exact dosage in such a way that each plant receives the specific substance that it needs the most. What kind of fertilizers and in what volume is best to apply in the fall?

What fertilizers are applied in the fall to the soil

Before the onset of winter, almost any fertilizer can be applied to the soil. Let's bring brief description each type of fertilizer.

1. Mineral fertilizers. Plants absorb nutrients from the soil only in the form of aqueous solution, therefore, fertilizers are usually applied in liquid form. There are many specially selected compositions: for lawns, fruit trees, conifers, berries and ornamental shrubs, perennials, etc. Tellingly, "autumn" fertilizers must be labeled appropriately on the packaging: "autumn", "for autumn use" and contain a minimum amount of nitrogen. At the same time, they should contain phosphorus, potassium and calcium, which strengthen the immunity of plants and increase their resistance to low temperatures and.
2. Manure and litter. These fertilizers are responsible for soil fertility. Fresh fertilizer is applied for digging, it cannot be applied directly under the plants, otherwise the roots can be burned. The frequency of manure and litter application is 1 time in 3-4 years.
3. Compost. Slowly decomposing compost has earned the nickname "black gold" among summer residents. With it, the soil remains fertile longer, and its positive traits intensify.
4. Peat contains a lot of organic matter and retains moisture well. True, there are few nutrients in high-moor peat, and it actively acidifies the soil. Lowland peat has a slightly acidic or neutral reaction, and there are more useful microelements in it. To find the sweet spot, it's best to add peat to your compost and use them together.
5. Ash.Gardeners and gardeners have long used ash as a promising and versatile fertilizer. It is obtained after burning weeds, tops and branches. Like manure, it is brought in for digging every 3-4 years.
6. Sawdust, as well as chopped grass, tree bark serve to loosen dense soils and retain moisture - on sandy ones. Gradually decomposing, sawdust turns into humus, which feed on microorganisms, fungi and worms.
7. siderates. This is the cheapest and most environmentally friendly fertilizer. Siderates are sown at the end of summer, and in autumn the grown greens are embedded in the soil. The most commonly sown crops are: lupine, alfalfa, vetch, clover, rye and oats.
8. potash fertilizers.This type of top dressing is applied in the fall, because during the winter the negative effect of the chlorine contained in them is neutralized, and the plants receive the necessary dose of the necessary substances. Potash fertilizers are often used to feed indoor plants.

The amount of fertilizer applied depends on the degree of depletion of the soil, sometimes up to 100 kg of fertilizer is needed per 10 sq.m.

What fertilizers are applied for digging

The worst thing is to “refuel” the soil with useful substances for those who are dominated by clay and loamy soils. During the winter, they are so compacted that almost nothing grows in them. Such soils need to be loosened since autumn and then one or more fertilizers should be applied:

• manure- apply about 3-4 kg per 1 sq.m no more than once every 3-4 years. After digging the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm, carefully lay it around the plants, but make sure that the composition does not come into contact with their root system - otherwise it may burn;
• grass cut,those. finely chopped weeds and grass. First, form a groove 20 cm deep. Lay a 5-7 cm layer of cooked weeds or tops left after harvesting on the bottom and cover with a layer of soil on top. Then lay another layer of chopped grass and sprinkle with earth again;
• phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.On average, 40-60 g of superphosphate and 25-30 g of potassium salt or potassium sulfate are applied per 1 sq.m of soil;
• green manure. There is simply no better time to plant green manure in the soil than autumn. As soon as they reach a height of 10 cm, they can be cut and dug up with the ground.

Overwintering plants mainly require phosphorus and potassium and, to a lesser extent, nitrogen.

What fertilizers are applied in autumn under fruit trees

The fertilization period for fruit trees falls on mid-October. It is the autumn planting of fertilizers that best helps the trees to endure cold winters. In autumn, the following top dressings are applied under fruit trees:

• humus improves the structure of the soil, directly affects the yield, providing the tree with all the necessary substances. Under young trees, 30 kg of humus should be applied, and under those that are 9-10 years old or more - up to 50 kg;
• phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.Under each apple tree and pear, 300 g of superphosphate and 200 g of potassium sulfate are added. Fertilizers are planted together with organic matter or poured into the near-stem circle and watered. For plums and cherries, preparations must be diluted in a proportion of 3 tbsp. superphosphate for 10 liters of water and 2 tbsp. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. Pour 4-5 buckets of the resulting solution under each adult tree;
• complex top dressing, such as "Orchard", "Universal", "Autumn". They should be applied in accordance with the instructions on the package;
• manure also often included in the autumn "menu" for feeding trees. But remember that you can’t fertilize trees with fresh manure, it must “reach” to readiness in at least 2-3 years. They bring it into the trunk circle when digging, and then mulch the soil with mowed grass or another type of mulch. The application rate for fruit trees is 4-5 kg.

After fertilizing the trees, it is desirable to mulch

What fertilizer to apply for berry bushes

Fertilizing under berry bushes should be started only after the entire crop has been harvested. In particular, currants and strawberries can be fed closer to the end of summer, and you should not delay with other crops either. Here is what is usually brought under berry bushes:

• ash- This is a natural mineral fertilizer that is great for berries and shrubs. It is obtained after burning leaves, grass and small vegetation. 3-4 kg of fertilizer are applied per 1 square meter, but they do this no more than once every 3-4 years. Raspberries respond especially well to ash feeding;
• chicken manure can be applied after harvest. This is not the most pleasant, but incredibly useful fertilizer. It is best to use dry and packaged chicken manure at the rate of 0.8-3 kg per 1 sq.m. After that, dig the bed. Also, the aisles can be watered with a solution diluted in a ratio of 1:15;
• complex mineral fertilizers from any specialized store. Use them in accordance with the instructions for use;
• dolomite or lime flour used to reduce the level of soil acidity, the average application rate is 300-450 g per 1 sq.m.

Remove and burn all plant debris before fertilizing

What fertilizers are applied to the potato bed

After harvesting potatoes, the cycle of field work does not stop. It is at this time that plowing and digging are carried out, and then fertilizers are applied, creating a reserve for the next year:

• straw manure is the best representative of organic fertilizers, without which the cultivation of potatoes is impossible. It is believed that the introduction of such a simple fertilizer increases the yield by 2 times. Before plowing, it is scattered over the bed at the rate of 5-10 kg per 1 sq.m;
• green manure you can also plant freshly harvested potato beds in the ground. They are mowed and covered with a layer of soil 10 cm thick;
• nitroammophoska, nitrophoska and ammophos- These are excellent complex fertilizers for autumn feeding of potato beds. General norm application is about 2 tbsp. per 1 sq.m, but it can be adjusted based on the instructions for use;
• other complex compositions. In particular, in autumn it is good to "refill" potato beds with double superphosphate (25 g / sq.m), potassium chloride (15 g / sq.m) and vegetable ash (300 g / sq.m).

Potatoes can be fed with humus, compost and rotted manure (no more than 10 kg per 1 sq.m)

Autumn is not the time to relax and rest, enjoying the fruits of your labor. In this short period of time before the onset of winter cold, you need to prepare for the next season and provide the garden with a comfortable “wintering”, which will allow you to count on a rich harvest in the future.

Ammonium nitrate, dosage? Ammonium nitrate is usually applied in the amount of 1 matchbox per 1 sq. m. Either the same amount is dissolved in 10 liters of water and the same area is shed.

Borofoska, Tell me, please? This is a good boron-containing agent - it was invented a long time ago in the USSR. I think that in the Moscow region it is not richer than in Belarus - the soils are of the same type. Borofoska is exactly how it should be used - put it in the hole when planting or scatter it when digging or loosening. Of course, you can’t feed adult apple trees like that - it’s better to spray them.

Potassium humate and sodium humate, Tell me, please? Better potassium. Potassium, as one of the main macronutrients of plant nutrition, is preferable to sodium. Excess sodium can adversely affect most plants. So if you have a choice and the same price, it is better to give preference to peat oxidate, potassium or ammonium humate. Apply in the spring - during the period of initial growth. The best period for the use of humates.

Peas, how to fertilize seedlings besides him? Suitable for any grains of legumes, and lentils, beans.

Peas, for which seedlings is feeding suitable for them? For anyone. Especially for someone who needs elevated content nitrogen - petunia, pumpkin, nightshade before flowering.

Liquid calcium, when to apply? of course, the best time is early spring. But it's never too late.

Liquid calcium, can calcium nitrate be used instead of chalk? Saltpeter will nitrogen the plant and may cause unnecessary vegetative growth. So it's undesirable. It contains 19% calcium and 13% nitrogen - that is, almost in half. You can't bring much...

Liquid calcium, can dolomite flour be used instead of chalk? Yes, the dolomite will do. There will also be magnesium supplementation.

Calcium nitrate, tell me, please? Calcium nitrate is an excellent fertilizer for use on acidic soils, as well as for plants that have an increased need for calcium (tomatoes, for example). Like other nitrogen fertilizers, calcium nitrate must be applied in the spring to avoid nitrogen losses (it will simply wash out during the winter-spring if applied in the fall). During the summer, you can feed all vegetables. But the feeding of flowers and fruit plants with calcium nitrate must be approached selectively. Rhododendrons, azaleas, heathers, ericas and other plants close to them prefer acidic fertilizers such as ammonium sulfate. In addition, excess calcium is harmful to them. Therefore, this fertilizer should be avoided. The same applies to blueberries, cranberries and other plants of the lingonberry family. They don't like calcium nitrate. The usual dosage is 1 matchbox per 10 liters of water and 1.5-2 liters of such a solution per 1 mature plant or for watering seedlings 1 time in 2 weeks. With this solution, you can feed tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, peppers, eggplants and other vegetables. Just remember the general rule that all nitrogen fertilizing should be stopped after the start of fruit formation. Otherwise, you can waste vegetables. It is also not recommended to feed green crops with nitrogen - for the same reason. Under the beds with greenery, it is necessary to make a good dressing before sowing seeds or planting seedlings. If the fertilizer is applied alveolarly, then 1 teaspoon per well is enough, and if in a continuous way, then at a dose of 25-30 g per sq.m.

"Osmocot" fertilizer, Tell me, please? And heard. And even enjoyed. In general, the effectiveness of this fertilizer is too exaggerated. Is that good for large-scale production of seedlings. At home, fertilizers can also be added to irrigation water. There are no miracles from him. This is just fertilizer for the lazy. It has no other advantages over other complex fertilizers with microelements.

Organic farming, what fertilizers to use? If we are talking about the cultivation of organic products, then, as a rule, chemical fertilizers are prohibited in principle. Composts, infusions of various substrates, natural springs phosphorus (bone meal, etc.) - fertilizers are usually used there in this form. And this is a separate big topic.

Landing, what can be put in the hole when planting? So ... organic matter is mainly ammonia and ammonium compounds (the same urea, etc.). They are completely incompatible with alkaline solutions - ammonia quickly evaporates. Therefore, it is impossible to mix organic matter and ash, as well as lime fertilizers, which are used to deoxidize the soil. The same applies to ammonium fertilizers - ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate and others that have the word "ammo" in the name (ammophoska, diammophos, etc.). It is also better not to mix saltpeter (potassium, calcium) with organic matter, since, firstly, there is enough nitrogen in organic matter, and, secondly, the resulting mixture contributes to the loss of nitrogen. As for mineral fertilizers, superphosphate does not like an alkaline reaction - it also reacts badly to ash and chalk (or similar substances - dolomite, lime), since phosphorus passes into a form that is very difficult for plants to reach, although this problem can be solved by improving the state of microflora, mycorrhiza and the use of microbiological preparations with phosphate mobilizing activity. It is not advisable to mix saltpeter with phosphate fertilizers. Nitric acid and phosphoric acid "conflict", as a result of which there is a risk of nitrogen loss. If you need to feed the plants with both phosphorus and nitrogen, it is better to use urea.

Superphosphate and double superphosphate, please tell me? My experience is this. I take 1.5-2 cups of simple superphosphate or a glass of double. I pour 10 liters hot water, I insist the night, mix and, as it were, grind the sediment. Then I stir everything up and add a liter of this infusion to a bucket of water. With this solution I feed berries, young trees, roses, seedlings - all crops. This solution is rather weak, but it definitely does not set fire to the roots, even the weakest ones. Another thing is the autumn senication of potatoes. Then I pour 2 kg of double superphosphate into 5 liters of boiling water, insist overnight, pour the solution into a bucket, and again pour 5 liters of boiling water over the sediment. I leave it overnight again. I merge into the same bucket, where the first "broth" is located. It turns out about 10 liters of solution. I pour it into a sprayer and go through the tops of potatoes a month before digging up the tubers. This improves tuber maturation, reduces disease infestation, increases starch content, etc.

Superphosphate in a greenhouse in barrels, before watering you mix the contents, is superphosphate in the sediment? No, I don't mix. I scoop slowly until I reach half the barrel, then I fill it up again. What I scoop out, I dilute 2 more times. Yes, the sediment at the bottom dissolves for a long time, gradually enriching the water with phosphates. This is the trick - to feed the plants in small doses, but regularly. We also add chalk to the soil (dolomite), and other substances ... And if you immediately "thump" large doses, complexes that are difficult for plants to quickly form. Small doses are small doses. And everything is OK with chemistry, and the plant is more comfortable.

Magnesium sulfate, dosage? I take a tablespoon or a matchbox for a bucket of water (this is about 20 g). The same amount of potassium sulfate (if necessary) - I mix in one bucket. And I spill 0.5-1.0 liters per bush - depending on the condition of the plants.

Tomatoes, what to bring into the hole for planting? Under tomatoes, it is best to add a tablespoon of complex fertilizer to the bush. Here, under peppers and eggplants, you can also organic. And tomatoes are not very organic ... Except at the seedling stage.

Peat as fertilizer, Tell me, please? The direct use of high-moor peat as a fertilizer is meaningless. It contains little mineralized substances. Although it well structures the soil, retains moisture and creates favorable conditions for plants. For use as a fertilizer, high-moor peat is weathered, neutralized and composted with the addition of mineral or other organic fertilizers (urine, slurry, manure, etc.). But lowland peat is black, mineralized, already contains many available minerals, humic substances and etc., so it can be directly used as a fertilizer.

Phosphorus top dressing, in what dosage should superphosphate be used compared to double? You can increase the dose one and a half times.

Phosphorus top dressing, how long should a superphosphate solution be stored? Can be stored for a long time. How many you want!

Phosphorus top dressing, how to use potassium monophosphate instead of double superphosphate? Potassium monophosphate does not require such dissolution (we dissolve superphosphate in boiling water). It is relatively expensive and very effective. So they can and should be spilled immediately after dissolving in water.

Phosphorus top dressing, dosage? Under large bushes - dilute 2-3 liters of the finished solution in a bucket of water and spill it properly. And strawberries are enough for 0.5-1.0 liters per bush.

Phosphorus fertilizer, when is the best time to feed? The formation of flower brushes. This is if "fast phosphorus" (as in the video). In general, it is optimal for autumn loosening with dry fertilizer.

Phosphorus fertilizer, is it possible to feed strawberries during flowering? Yes, with ease. Just do a sprinkling after top dressing - wash off the residue from the leaves and rinse the solution into the soil properly

Phosphorus fertilizer, is it possible to feed strawberries if the berries are already hanging? Yes, you can. Just try not to pour on the berries themselves. Better on the ground and not from a height, but under a bush. What would be less earth splashes.

Calcium chloride, Tell me, please? Calcium chloride, of course, is a good source of "fast" calcium ... But it also contains chlorine, which is not good, especially in closed ground, since chlorine is washed out very slowly in the absence of precipitation.

Garlic, what to feed? Garlic is just in love with potassium! And in spring it is good for garlic (early, to increase cold resistance), and in summer. Of course, it is very important what may be missing in the soil. Therefore, phosphorus should not be ignored. But potassium for garlic is everything. Two or three weeks before harvesting - be sure to feed with a phosphorus solution - as in the video about strawberries. Then the bulb is well stored and the taste will be very rich. Of the microelements, both onion and garlic are very responsive to copper and zinc - this improves keeping quality. Preparations with copper to protect against fungi can also act as copper dressings. Well, zinc can be searched either as part of microelement complexes or in its pure form.

Organic fertilizers include: slurry, manure, faeces, mullein, compost, peat, wood ash and plant residues. It is recommended to apply these fertilizers to the soil once every two years. It is better to apply manure in the fall, slightly digging in. It is especially important to observe this rule when using fresh manure. If it is planted too deeply, then microelements useful for plants will not be formed in it, and there will be little benefit from such a fertilizer. If the manure is sufficiently decomposed, then it can be applied to the soil in the spring. It also works well as a mulching material. Manure is not a good source of nutrition for plants. It contains few nutrients, but it improves soil structure well and serves as a source of humus. Therefore, to increase the yield, it is recommended to use mineral fertilizers.

If used correctly, peat can be a good fertilizer. It is scattered in the spring over the site, without being embedded in the soil, and loosened with a cultivator. Plants planted in such a site quickly form a strong root system.

Wood ash gives plants calcium and protects them from pests. Coal ash is not recommended. It will do more harm than good.

Manure or faeces is filled with compost heaps. They cannot be poured directly onto the ridges. These fertilizers contain elements that can harm plants. In only one case, the introduction of feces or slurry into the beds is allowed. This is done in winter or late autumn. The soil should be well frozen. Goat, rabbit or bird droppings can only be used after composting.

Compost heaps are not recommended for open sunny areas. There must be enough moisture in the heap, otherwise the bacteria that contribute to the formation of compost will not be able to exist. Plants in the compost heap are laid only by healthy ones, since pathogens do not die even after complete decomposition of plant residues.

Summer is the time for the formation and ripening of fruits. You can increase the harvest or lose. Right now it is important to properly water the plants, to maintain the water balance.

It seems that it is complicated: take a watering can, a hose and water it to your health. But it turns out that watering in various climatic conditions appears to be a science. There are general rules when, than and garden crops.

1. Time to water or not? If the ground is moist at a depth of three centimeters, you can wait a little with watering. Dry soil is best sprinkled with water first, and only then watered abundantly. Make sure that puddles do not form when watering.

2. Water in the morning or evening? It is better to water in the morning, the moisture will have time to absorb and there will be less evaporation. Watering in the evening hours is dangerous for the spread of fungal diseases. Abundant watering will not allow moisture to be absorbed at night and excessive dampness will appear.

3. Water under the root or from above? Most crops should be watered under the root, otherwise there may be a threat of fungal diseases.

4. Do you need cold or warm water? Plants like to drink settled, sun-warmed water. Such water is more saturated with oxygen. But from cold water, the roots of plants die off.

5. How to deliver water to massive, long roots? Rooted plants with a well-developed root system require deep watering. Such watering can be achieved by making a thin stream of water in a hose and putting it under the root. Water slowly enters the soil, moistening it well.

6. Does the frequency of watering depend on the soil? Soil properties must be taken into account when watering. Clay soils retain moisture better, and therefore less watered. Sandy plants require more frequent watering.

7. How to keep moisture? A few hours after watering, it is necessary to loosen or mulch the soil. This will prevent moisture from escaping. But when loosening, do not allow the roots to be exposed.

8. More water– more harvest? A lot of water does not mean a good harvest. Plants are more likely to die from overflow than from dry land. When watering the garden, know the measure.

Related videos

Tip 3: Organic Fertilizers Double Your Yields

Plants for active growth and development must be fed, without top dressing there will be no good harvest. Instead of buying expensive mineral complexes, you can make organic fertilizers yourself from the material that is in every yard, on every plot.

Nettle fertilizer

Components for fertilizers are literally under your feet. Did you know that not only tasty cabbage soup is obtained from nettle, but also an excellent nitrogen fertilizer, in which most plants have a special need. Nettle top dressing provides crops with nutritious micro- and macroelements, stimulates growth, and has a strengthening effect.

liquid fertilizer. Collect nettles before flowering, when they are growing rapidly. Finely chop, put in an enamel container and pour cold water, close the lid and leave to ferment for 10-14 days. Stir every day. For 1 kg of nettle 10 liters of water. During fermentation, the nettle decomposes, resulting in a thick dark slurry with an unpleasant specific odor.

For irrigation, the liquid does not need to be filtered. When watering cabbage, lettuce, leaf parsley, dilute the tincture with water 1: 1 - these crops especially need nitrogen. For watering nightshade crops, dilute 1:5, or even 1:10. For spraying crops, dilute the fertilizer 1:10. Do not need such watering onions, garlic, legumes.

Nettle decoction. This is an excellent tonic, used to prevent viral and fungal diseases, including late blight. Leaves of a nettle to fill in with water and to boil 10 minutes. For 1 kg of nettle 5 liters of water. Strain the broth, dilute with water 1:20 and spray the crops 2-3 times per season. This must be done before signs of the disease appear, since the decoction does not cure the disease, but strengthens the plant's immunity.

Ash fertilizer

An excellent alternative to mineral potash fertilizers is wood ash. I will approach the remains after burning straw, dry grass, dry manure, branches. It's just great if there is a bathhouse on the site - ash with a 12% potassium content is obtained from birch firewood.

Ash can be used dry, in its pure form, adding to the wells and beds when planting, about 30 g (1 tablespoon) per well. It can be diluted in water, 150 g per 10 liters, insist 15 minutes and do root watering 500 ml per vegetable bush. Under each bush or fruit tree you need to pour a bucket of such a solution.

Useful for plants and lye, it works as a soil deoxidizer. Recipe: pour 1 kg of ash into 2.5 liters of boiling water, leave for six hours. Then dilute this concentrated solution with two buckets of water, pour 0.5 liters under a bush.

Organic fertilizers will make the soil fertile, help grow healthy, nitrate-free vegetables, berries, and fruits.

The recycling of human waste has occupied scientists around the world for more than a decade. Search in progress global solution Problems. Many summer residents are also looking for a one-size-fits-all toilet solution. suburban area. A free fecal fertilizer base or so-called "human manure" is harvested along with a regular compost heap. The use of manure, including human, is used quite widely. This method has a lot of adherents and the same number of opponents.

What are waste

The idea to use valuable, and most importantly, free raw materials as fertilizer for your own garden visits many summer residents. But the idea is not new and has been known since Ancient Greece. In Russia, feces are known as "night gold", in England "night fertilizer". In Japan, a similar source of fertilizer was even bought and sold.

A mixture of human waste is considered a valuable and effective organic fertilizer. Every year, an adult emits an average of about 0.5 tons of waste. 2/3 of human waste consists of the remains of digested and undigested food. In cesspools and ordinary country toilets, the mass contains nitrogen (0.5–0.8%), phosphorus (0.3–0.5%), potassium (0.2–0.4%).

The danger of using fecal matter

It is unacceptable to use pure human feces for many reasons. Firstly, this is the usual disgust and fetid smell of the garden, which will not disappear for a long time.

Thirdly, negative changes in the physical and chemical structure of the soil. In addition to useful compounds for plants, feces contain a large amount of chlorine and sodium, heavy metal impurities. The soil is subjected to sun exposure, a strongly alkaline environment arises, which is detrimental to many plants.

Compost toilet for a summer cottage

A dry closet with the possibility of composting can be purchased or made independently. A composting toilet practically does not differ from other types of dry closets, it is safe to use and does not require electricity to operate. Such models have a number of advantages:

• The addition of peat or sawdust creates a dry environment without fermentation.
• No unpleasant odor
• No ventilation pipe and drainage hose does not attract insects
• A sufficiently large tank is emptied once a year
• The filler promotes the processing of the mass into compost

You can make a compost toilet in the country from simple available building materials. The main components for building: a wooden base, a plastic or wooden case, a removable seat. Materials for manufacturing:

• Drawing or sketch of a structure
• Wooden parts and blanks according to the dimensions of the sketch
• 4 identical plastic containers with lids
• Locksmith tool kit
• Filler (sawdust or peat)
• Peat container, scoop or spatula

The prepared parts are connected according to the sketch using nails, self-tapping screws and glue. A filler is placed in the base container, which is changed after each use.

Farmers around the world traditionally use compost pits and heaps to rot manure. Raw materials based on feces are no exception. Cold composting is unacceptable in this case. To obtain a safe fertilizer, it is required heat inside the compost heap.

Raw materials for the preparation of fertilizers are laid like ordinary compost. Alternate plant waste, manure and peat, you can add garden soil. The hot cooking method requires the use of special preparations that accelerate the process of starting “burning” (“Baikal M1”, “Tamir”, “Urgas”, etc.).

Despite the presence of EM preparations, such a fertilizer is prepared for a long time, up to 1.5 years.

Should I use feces-based fertilizers?

Modern technologies for waste processing and fertilizer production are constantly evolving. In the USA, Britain, Japan, this industry is quite extensive. From faeces and manure, phosphate and nitrogen fertilizers, biohumuses and complex fertilizers, such as Mylogranite, are produced. Industrial processing includes heat treatment, disinfection and other manipulations.

The resulting fertilizer is used to fertilize stadium fields, golf courses and other landscaping. For gardens and growing crops is not used.

It is definitely impossible to use fresh manure based on feces.

All types of manure can lead to burns of the root system of plants and the death of plantings.

Also unsuitable fresh material for the preparation of tinctures and solutions. A breeding ground for germs and bacteria will result in a fermented solution that is unusable.

Whether to fertilize your own garden with manure or compost made from human waste is an easy decision. Safety for human health must come first. Providing optimal conditions for the processing of such specific raw materials is not an easy task. Heavy metals and concentrated salts accumulate in vegetables and root crops. You can only use those types of fertilizers that you are 100% sure of.