How to tie loaches flowers. Fast growing climbing plants for the fence - make your site unique

garden bindweed belongs to the genus Bindweed (lat. Convolvulus) of the Bindweed family. There are more than 250 species of plants in this genus, the main unifying feature of which is the shape of the flowers. Representatives of the genus grow in areas with temperate and subtropical climate. The scientific name of the genus comes from the Latin verb meaning "to curl up", and explains the need of many species to wrap their stems around other plants, using them as a support. The most common among bindweeds is field bindweed - the same bindweed weed that affects crops and private gardens.

Planting and caring for bindweed

  • Bloom: from early June to autumn.
  • Landing: sowing seeds for seedlings - in March, planting seedlings in the garden - in mid-May.
  • Lighting: bright sunlight or partial shade.
  • The soil: permeable, preferably loamy.
  • Watering: moderate, but regular, especially in drought. The most moisture-loving species is the Mauritanian bindweed.
  • Top dressing: if necessary, wood ash is poured under the bush or a solution of a tablespoon of Nitrophoska and a tablespoon of Agricola is added for flowering plants in 10 liters of water at a consumption of 3 liters of fertilizer per 1 m² of land.
  • Garter: it is advisable to install supports for the plant immediately when planting seedlings: the sooner you guide the plant along the support, the easier it will be for you to take care of it.
  • Pruning: at any time if necessary.
  • Reproduction: The plant reproduces well by self-sowing. To prevent the bindweed from clogging the entire garden, remove its flowers immediately after withering so that the ripened seeds do not fall to the ground.
  • Pests: aphid.
  • Diseases: powdery mildew.

Read more about growing bindweed below.

Bindweed flower - description

The life forms of bindweed are numerous. In nature, annual bindweeds and perennial bindweeds are found. They can be herbaceous plants or shrubs with erect or creeping stems up to 4 m long. Bindweeds have creeping rhizomes with filamentous roots. The leaves of plants of this genus are usually simple, entire, alternate, petiolate, lobed or serrated, arrow-shaped or heart-shaped. The flowers that open early in the morning are arranged in axils one or three, or collected in inflorescences. The corolla of the flowers is bell-shaped or funnel-shaped with barely pronounced lobes. The fruit is a box with seeds that remain viable for 2-3 years.

Bindweed in the garden is a nightmare for any gardener, but bindweed ornamental plant is a fast-growing vine that landscape designers are willing to use. Its bright greenery, flexible shoots and delicate flowers can drape any vertical surface. The bindweed flower reproduces only by seed. In order to achieve maximum masking of the object with bindweed in a short time, it is advisable to use the seedling method of plant propagation.

Bindweed seeds are sown for seedlings in March, having previously kept them in water for a day. They are laid out in separate cups with drainage holes for the outflow of excess water, filled with moist compost soil or soil mixture, consisting of one part of peat and two parts of fertile soil. Sprinkle the seeds on top with loose soil and lightly press it with your hands. Do not sow bindweed in a common box, because it does not tolerate a pick. Contain crops at a temperature of 18-20 ºC, watering regularly, and after two weeks, shoots can be expected.

Bindweed seedlings need to moisten the soil as it dries and to fertilize with a solution of mineral fertilizer in a weak concentration every two weeks.

Planting bindweed in the garden

When to plant bindweed

As soon as warm weather sets in and the threat of return frosts has passed, bindweed seedlings are planted in the ground after preliminary hardening. Usually the necessary conditions occur in mid-May, although there are years when bindweed seedlings are planted in the first decade of June.

Choose a well-lit place for the plant: under the bright sun, the bindweed liana will bloom for a long time and profusely. The plant needs soil that is permeable, preferably loamy, although in general bindweed is not picky about the composition of the soil.

How to plant bindweed

The site for bindweed must be prepared in advance: dig up, introducing 2-3 kg of peat for each m² of area, and level it. Before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly so that they can be easily removed from the cups. Seedlings are planted by transshipment of seedlings into holes located at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. After planting and embedding, the seedlings are watered again.

bindweed care

Growing bindweed in the garden

One of the important points in the care of bindweed is its watering, which should be regular and sufficient. Moisture deficiency can lead to dropping of buds, however, excessive moisture will also not benefit the plant. In a normal summer with normal rainfall, you don’t have to worry about the condition of the bindweed, but if it’s hot, don’t forget to water it, especially if you grow an ampelous Moorish species.

The rest of the care for bindweed is simple: weeding the plant will be required only after planting, and as soon as the bindweed gets stronger, it is no longer afraid of any weeds. Growing bindweed may require the establishment of supports, and the sooner you do this, the better. Guide the bindweed shoots along the supports in a timely manner, and if the plant has spread too much, you can partially trim it without any harm to the bindweed. There is no need to remove wilted flowers or apply top dressing, but if it seems to you that the bindweed is not growing fast enough or blooming poorly, feed it with a solution of 1 tablespoon of Agricola for flowering plants and 1 tablespoon of Nitrophoska in 10 liters of water at the rate of 2.5- 3 liters per 1 m² of planting. You can also sprinkle wood ash under the bush.

Pests and diseases of bindweed

Bindweed is very rarely sick, pests do not bother him either. Powdery mildew can sometimes appear on it, for which the plant is treated with a Bordeaux mixture or other fungicide. It damages the bindweed aphid, which acaricides will help you get rid of - Aktellik, Antitlin or Aktara.

Bindweed after flowering

Bindweed is grown in an annual crop, but if you want to save it, dig it up, transplant the plant into a pot, and let it winter in a bright, frost-free room. In the spring it can be planted again in the garden. But since bindweed reproduces well by self-sowing, you will most likely see fresh seedlings of the plant in the spring in the place where it grew last year.

How to get rid of bindweed

When looking at a well-groomed garden bindweed, one simply cannot believe that his field relative can cause gardeners a lot of trouble. But this perennial has amazing vitality and endurance. He is able to strangle any plant in his tenacious embrace, and if you find a modest bush of field bindweed in your garden or vegetable garden, start fighting it immediately. Try to pull all its roots out of the ground with a rake. If you failed to do this, and the weed began to take over the garden, you will have to resort to herbicides - Tornado, Roundup or Lintur preparations. Start by applying "point strikes" and repeat the treatment several times.

With the total occupation of the site by field bindweed in early spring, while you have not planted anything yet, dig up the soil, select all segments of the roots with a rake, and then cover the area with dark material that does not transmit light - roofing felt or black film: without access to oxygen and light, with strong heating, the bindweed is unlikely to be able to survive. But just in case, do not plant anything in this area this year except white mustard, which will not give the weed a single chance to survive. You can also sow fescue or bluegrass.

If the bindweed appeared in an already sown garden, you will have to weed daily, and the roots and stems of the bindweed with seeds must be burned. Herbicides are best used topically or after harvest. In autumn, the soil is dug deep, the bindweed roots are removed and burned. Resist the temptation to compost them because they might re-sprout.

Types and varieties of bindweed

There are not so many garden types of bindweed. We present you the most popular of them.

Mauritanian bindweed (Convolvulus sabatius = Convolvulus Mauritanicus)

This is an excellent plant for hanging baskets and containers, the shoots of which, covered with delicate gray-green leaves, reach a length of 50 cm. The flowers of this species are most often a light lilac hue.

Let's look at the original, but at the same time easy-to-make do-it-yourself support options for climbing plants. First, we will take a closer look at the manufacture of a simple version of a garden trellis, and then we will give photo examples of a variety of designs.

Most gardeners love a variety of climbing plants, which for good growth and development needs support. One of the possible supports for climbing plants is a trellis. With a little imagination, it is quite possible to create an uneasy lattice support for plants, and a bright addition landscape design garden. Today, many gardeners specially plant climbing plants in order to install an original do-it-yourself trellis on their site.

Benefits of using tapestries:

  • the ability to increase the amount of greenery in a small area due to vertical gardening;
  • with the help of such green partitions, it is possible to conditionally zone the site;
  • the original trellis can hide ugly places on the site, for example, uneven walls of buildings, an old fence;
  • connecting several identical trellises of non-standard shapes together, you can create an unusual gazebo;
  • using a horizontal trellis as a roof for a gazebo, you can get a good shady place to relax in the summer heat;
  • from several rows of trellises, you can arrange an open-air living room or a patio where you can hide from prying eyes.

Manufacturing features

Main materials for tapestries: metal, wood, wire, plastic. Most often, tapestries are made from wooden slats. When creating a trellis, it is necessary to correctly calculate the appropriate stiffness of the frame for the possible load of the plant for which the trellis is created.

The shape of the trellis is chosen individually, depending on the preferences of the owner, his skills in this area and the available materials. The strength of the structure will depend on the size of the cells in the trellis: the larger they are, the less the strength of the trellis. Therefore, it is better to make smaller cells, the optimal size would be 10 cm. The wooden elements of the trellis are connected with nails, self-tapping screws, or simply tied with a rope, which allows you to stretch the trellis in the shape of a diamond. For good strength of the trellis, it is also very important to observe the same cell sizes.

Wooden trellis structures come in square, rectangular or triangular shapes. Much more different forms of tapestries can be made from plastic and metal, for example, arcuate, fan-shaped, etc. Correct installation

To stiffen a free-standing trellis, a support post is installed from a reinforcing bar with a minimum thickness of 1 cm, which must be stuck into the ground by at least 50 cm. A wooden beam can act as a support post. Its end, which will be in the ground, must be treated with resin and wrapped with roofing material. Then you need to firmly fix the trellis on it.

A frame, metal or wooden, can give rigidity and strength to a free-standing trellis. If the trellis will be mounted on a wall, pole or near a building, the stiffening frame can be omitted. The simplest frame can be made from wooden beams, the thickness of which will be slightly larger than the wooden slats for the trellis itself. First, a frame is built, and then a trellis is assembled on it.

To give strength and reliability to a row of trellises installed along a path or flower bed, one large frame is made from bars of such sections: for racks - bars with a section of 3x4 cm, for longitudinal joints - 1x2 cm.


The trellis will be a noticeable addition to the design of your site. You just need to install it on the site and plant a good climbing plant next to it, which will eventually grow and wrap around the trellis, creating a beautiful element of landscape design.

Climbing plants create their own atmosphere in the garden, with them the site looks different - brighter, more colorful, more comfortable. It becomes more places for recreation, secluded corners formed by a living green wall. And if this wall is also in flowers, you are in a good mood, since the energy of flowering plants is very positive. Supports for climbing plants are various devices for the manifestation of their decorative qualities, which also provide plants with proper growth and development.

Supports can be either created with your own hands or purchased from manufacturers - many companies produce pergolas, arches, trellises specifically for climbing plants. At one time, they were not given due attention, hops and girlish grapes were found in the yards, but climbing plants do not deserve oblivion, and today the fashion for creepers and bindweeds has returned again, and with them our gardens have become much more beautiful and comfortable.

The simplest and most budget options for supports

Consider the option of building the simplest support for a climbing plant in the shape of a cone. You will need 4-6 strong long sticks, wire or twine and smaller sticks to create a lattice. On the ground we make markings - a square, in the corners - recesses for sticks, fix them in the soil, add the rest, connect the tops and tie them. Then we fix it crosswise on large small sticks. Support is ready.

It can be used in the garden for pumpkins, cucumbers, grapes, and it can also be used for flowering plants - sweet pea, purple morning glory, kobe, honeysuckle, ampelous gloxinia, etc. such a support is small in size, it is better to use it for climbing annuals - they are more miniature.

It is very easy to build such a simple support, you don’t have to spend money on materials, you can make them as much as you need. The site will look more attractive, and you will ensure the plants grow properly.

Ready forged supports various shapes can be purchased for miniature climbing annuals. Ipomoea, ornamental beans, ivy are ideal for them

There are also such ready-made supports for ampelous and climbing annuals, this is an interesting alternative to planters and hanging pots

Construction #2 - chain-link mesh support

For weaving plants, a chain-link mesh with large sections will be an excellent support. You can simply buy one and a half to two meters of canvas and stretch it between two wooden or iron poles. Buy a galvanized chain-link, or, even better, plasticized - it does not rust, it looks aesthetically pleasing. We treat wooden poles with a protective agent, paint metal poles, stretch the mesh, fix it with wire or special hooks - and the support is ready. Over time, the plants will curl it so that the grid almost completely disappears from view, and you get a living green wall that you can place a bench or hammock against.

Support for climbing roses made of chain-link mesh with decorative wooden poles. Carved pillars give such a support an aesthetic look, and when the roses grow up, it will become a wonderful element for decorating the garden.

Chain-link fences, in addition to the protective function, are a good support for climbing plants, especially quickly the net will hide girlish grapes or hops from view, which grow quickly and grow well.

Pergolas, arches and trellises as supporting structures

Light lattices with a pattern in the form of a rhombus or square, made of wood, metal or plastic, have appeared with us relatively recently. These are pergolas designed specifically for garden decoration and as supports for climbing plants.

Classical pergola - supporting pillars and a roof in the form of a lattice. Wisteria is used as an ornamental climbing plant, resulting in a gallery for walks of amazing beauty.

Pergolas are usually combined with such garden decorative elements as an arch, an arbor, a bench. If the bench and pergola form a single structure, then in company with a climbing plant, for example, a campsis, a very picturesque corner is obtained. The classic pergola is a structure of vertical posts with a roof of transverse bars in the form of a lattice. Any vines and climbing plants can grow on the roof. This design looks especially beautiful with girlish grapes, when its leaves turn red in autumn, with wisteria.

Very often, the pergola and the arched structure are used as a whole - this is one of the most beautiful decorative elements, both on its own and in combination with plants. A double arch with a lattice on top can be placed above a gate, a bench, use arches instead of supporting pillars in a row and create a beautiful gallery. It will look very beautiful with climbing roses.

Forging on the site always looks great, you can order various original pergola arches for the garden and use them as a support for roses, grapes, honeysuckle

Climbing rose arches have already become classics - today they are widely used for wedding ceremonies and other celebrations, and such an arch or several on the site will create a festive atmosphere in which you will stay every day

One of the small forms used to decorate the garden is a trellis. Tapestries were widely used in Russian noble estates, they came to us from Europe, where they were used to decorate gardens by both simple peasants and noblemen. Initially, this concept meant a dense planting in a row of low-growing shrubs or trees that form a green vertical wall. Today, a tapestry is also a support in the form of a metal or wooden lattice; a grid stretched between the pillars is also called a tapestry.

Unlike a pergola, a trellis can be an independent support - it can be leaned against the wall of the building, fixed in the right place in the garden. The design can be both light and massive, in a strong frame. You can use both single trellises and a group, creating screens of climbing plants in the garden. , like indoor screens, can be used for zoning the territory.

Such a fence in the form of a trellis hedge is an ornament in itself. The sun penetrates through it, climbing roses look picturesque against the background of a wooden lattice

Variants of garden trellis with a box for plants. It is most convenient to make them out of wood, in the first case you get an interesting arch in the center, in the second - a green wall

Such a trellis is very easy to make from a thin beam, paint - and you will have the opportunity to accentuate a separate area of ​​​​the garden by choosing the appropriate plants.

To transform the garden today, there is a considerable selection of various interesting devices, choose, experiment, and create your masterpieces in landscape design.

A picky, but very pretty bindweed is popularly known as a birch. Its soft pink or white flowers spread like a luxurious carpet on the ground. Many housewives use ornamental plant varieties to decorate their backyard, as well as their balcony. Saturated shades of blue or purple look breathtaking against the backdrop of gray high-rise buildings. Scientists know about 250 varieties of the Vyunkov family. However, it is worth paying attention to the description of several gardeners' favorites.

Toffee should be planted at a distance of 25 cm to other crops. If it is used to fill the territory, then the distance from other plants is 50-60 cm.

General characteristics

In nature, birch can be found in your garden. It resembles a creeper in miniature. By the way, the Latin name of the loach means "roll up" or "wrap", which very accurately conveys the nature of the plant. Stems and rhizomes resemble thin cables that masterfully wrap around any structure: living or not. The question of what a bindweed looks like should be answered with a description of each of its parts separately:


The value of this culture is also in the fact that it has many color solutions. As shown in the photo, bindweed can be monophonic, two- and three-color. The dominant shades of these "European creepers" are:

Loaches begin to bloom from the end of spring. As a result, the whole summer and until the autumn frosts, you can admire the splendor of these delicate flowers.

It is necessary to grow representatives of the Vyunkovy family on non-acidic and relatively moist soil. You should also provide them with sufficient lighting, or at least diffused.

field bindweed

This herbaceous plant is most often fought in vegetable gardens or flower beds. However, as practice shows, it is possible to be friends with him. The composition of the field bindweed includes dozens of useful elements that help in the fight against diseases:

  • liver;
  • respiratory tract (bronchitis, asthma);
  • circulatory system;
  • skin rashes;
  • kidneys (relieves swelling).

Moreover, it has antiseptic properties. Cultures that grow next to it are less susceptible to mold or fungi. You can make excellent mulch with it. Such a substrate not only disinfects the soil, but also makes it loose and also moist.

Favorable soil for this species is loam or sandy loam (with a high content of sand).

Field birch is both perennial and annual. White or pink small flowers (rarely blue and purple) are abundantly covered with a creeping stalk. In most cases, it has a smooth surface, but sometimes there are specimens with a hairy covering. To a full description of field bindweeds, the following must be added:

  • the stem in length reaches only 100-150 cm;
  • flowering period: from mid-April to the first frost;
  • leaves of an elongated triangular shape (like a spear), located on petioles;
  • cone-shaped flowers grow on long pedicels singly or in inflorescences (1-3 buds);
  • thin bindweed roots reach 3 and even 6 meters in length;
  • method of reproduction: seed or root (offspring).

This birch is a wonderful decoration for the garden. With her help, the hostess will skillfully hide incorrect spaces in . An exquisite live carpet in the backyard of golden weed will create an enchanting atmosphere.

Bindweed garden

This type of toffee is distinguished by a variety of bright and contrasting colors. With such a flowering carpet, you can decorate an unsightly slope in the country. Very often, unsown plots of land are empty in the gardens. Why not use garden bindweed to spruce up your dacha. In the garden, they can decorate alleys. Curly blue or white loach borders will add some pomposity to the corner of paradise. Designers recommend making a screen or partition from these plants. It perfectly separates one part of the garden from another or serves as a shade for other crops.

One branch is enough to grow golden weed in a container. Then he has more space to grow and create a thick, luxurious cascade.

Letniki creepers are dependent on sunlight. So, the bindweed flower closes and twists if it is cloudy or it's raining. Although this plant is unpretentious, there are still some features of its planting and cultivation:


If white stains appear on the green, then the vine was struck by powdery mildew. Several treatments with fungicidal agents will destroy the pest.

It is important to properly water the garden bindweed, a photo of this variety for vertical gardening is given below. You should not fill in the beds too abundantly, because this leads to the growth of greenery, and not inflorescences. However, due to a lack of moisture, the buds will crumble. Without top dressing, the flowers will grow small and faded. Therefore, before planting, the land is fertilized with peat.
The soil is sprinkled when the toffee throws out the buds. Complex fertilizers(nitrogen or potash) treat the beds every two weeks. The substrate is laid out on the soil, and then washed off with water using a watering can.

To plant seedlings in the ground, you need to sow the seeds in a container at the beginning of March. Store containers in a warm and sunny place, watering regularly.

Tricolor

It is considered the most spectacular for planting in pots (containers). The combination of blue (ultramarine shade) and white with a fiery yellow (lemon) center makes it unique. Thanks to this coloring, it perfectly flaunts on the terraces and flower beds of megacities. Bindweed tricolor is an annual that grows up to 50 cm tall. The stems are strewn with dense greenery. The bluish-green leaves make a wonderful backdrop for the large, variegated flowers with wavy edges. They are up to 5 cm in diameter.
Among other things, there are three more varieties of tricolor loach:

  • "Blue" and "Rainbow" Flash. Both flowers and leaves grow as densely as possible, forming spherical bushes.
  • Royal Ensign. Flowers have a dark color - velvet purple flowers with a characteristic black tint.
  • Crimson Monarch. Bright crimson hue of inflorescences.

These are the fastest growing ornamental species. For 2-3 months, the rhizomes germinate up to 2 meters in depth. If they break, they form new shoots.

Bindweed is an annual plant that is grown from seeds. Due to the fact that this variety is undersized, it has many lateral processes. Therefore, such instances resemble the shape of a sphere. They look amazing on terraces, windows or loggias.

room

In a house or apartment, you can grow indoor bindweed, which was specially bred for such conditions. This variety is very capricious. It can not be kept outdoors - a windowsill or a balcony. The direct rays of the sun will lead to yellowing of the leaves, as well as to the drying of the base of the root. In addition, indoor birch is very fond of moisture. Therefore, it must be regularly watered and sprayed. You can safely bathe a young toffee in the bathroom. These procedures must be done in winter period when the air in the apartment is too dry due to heating. You need to put a pot with a flowerpot in a secluded place, because drafts are dangerous for it.

If you plant a vine in a container, then it should be placed on the south side of the house or closer to the east.

Caring for these three types of bindweed - field, garden and indoor - does not require much effort. This light-loving plant will be a worthy decoration personal plot or terraces.



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