Potato novelties and their test

Potato novelties in my garden in the 2015 season

Potatoes are not only the main crop in my garden, but also my hobby. There are a huge number of varieties in the world, and every year breeders create and offer new ones that are not similar to previous varieties.

Sometimes it is so interesting to watch how varieties that were created more than a hundred years ago and completely new ones that have just come out of the breeding beds develop. And watching them when grooves with one variety, for example, Russet Burbank, created more than a hundred years ago, grows next to a new, recently created variety, for example, Zhukov's Jubilee. This is how an old variety from America grows with me with a Russian novelty, as if showing who is better. And in the fall, digging a bush, I wait with interest what kind of treasure is there under the bush, how it will thank the variety for its cares and caring for it with early spring until autumn. It happens that the old variety outperforms the new one and will give a rich harvest of large, beautiful tubers. But even beginners are not inferior to their predecessors, sometimes with their exuberant growth, beautiful bush, good yield, as well as taste and excellent tenderness, and most importantly these days - high resistance to diseases and pests. New products are replacing old varieties and, moving forward, occupy large planting areas, both in gardens and in the fields.

During the years that I have been dealing with potatoes, I have experienced and grown a large number of varieties, in the 2015 season alone, more than 150 varieties were located on my site. Every year, observing the varieties, I select the best ones that stand out, first of all, for good yields and disease resistance. When digging, I evaluate the appearance of the tubers, and, of course, the taste and storage.

In the 2015 season, many varieties created by both Russian breeders and varieties of foreign selection showed themselves on the new site.

During the observation and testing for two years, several foreign varieties were very outstanding and sheltered, which simply exceeded all my expectations. I want to tell you a little about them.

When I first learned that there is such a variety of El Mundo and it has, as indicated, a truly royal taste. Of course, with such a phrase, as they say, the soul was on fire to acquire and grow it on its site.

The search was crowned with success, and the cherished nodules arrived to me by mail in a small parcel in the spring of 2014. I also received other new products with this variety. So, on the test, I had five new products, about which there were simply incredible statements about the taste and yield.

Well, the seed tubers have been received, spring has come, planting time. All varieties were grown according to the same scheme. Planting in early May in the grooves, before planting the tubers, I treat them with a dressing agent and put them into the holes when planting complex fertilizer... Then the usual agricultural techniques - harrowing, weeding, hilling. As you can see, there are no frills and tricks in agricultural technology.

The El Mundo variety interested me from the very beginning by its description, they write about it: “A table variety with exceptional taste. Suitable for growing on all types of soils, suitable for cultivation using organic fertilizers with high resistance to late blight and common scab. Forms a large number of tubers and has a high yield. Judging by the description, not a variety, but the dream of any gardener-potato grower, moreover, with resistance to phytophthora, which in last years more and more actively develops and destroys a significant part of the crop. El Mundo is an early ripening variety, and the first digging can be done on the 45th day. I count from the appearance of full shoots.

The tuber of the variety is oval or oval-elongated, with a yellow skin and light yellow pulp.

The average tuber weight is 110-140 g. With a starch content of 11-13.5%, which is not enough for early varieties. With high marketability and keeping quality. And, of course, with a very high taste.

The variety is marked with high resistance to the causative agent of potato cancer, nematode. Resistant to late blight on tops and tubers. And moderately resistant, according to the originator of the variety, to the virus of leaf twisting, wrinkled and striped mosaic.

Along with the variety El Mundo tested such varieties as Bafana, Colomba, Bettina and Panther.

All these varieties were tested together with the El Mundo variety on the same plot with the same planting and care. A little briefly on the description of these varieties.

Bafana is a medium late variety, suitable for growing on all types of soils. Sprout quickly. The tubers quickly gain mass and form a strong skin. The tuber is oblong-oval, with small eyes. The peel is yellow, the flesh is white. Tuber weight 100-150 g, starch content 14-16%. Possesses high productivity, good taste and high shelf life. According to the originator, it is resistant to the causative agent of potato cancer and golden potato nematode. Moderately susceptible to late blight pathogen in tops and tubers.

Colomba is a very early variety, the first digging can be done on the 45th day after full germination.

According to the originator, the variety is ultra-early maturing, which very quickly forms not only bright, but also resistant to damage peel, suitable for washing.

The tubers of the variety are oval-rounded, with small eyes. The rind and flesh are yellow. Tuber weight up to 130 g, starch content 11-15%. Possesses excellent taste and high shelf life. Resistant to cancer and nematodes. Medium resistant to late blight.

Bettina is a medium-early variety, from planting to the beginning of the formation of a marketable crop for 70-80 days. The tuber is oval with small eyes. The peel is yellow, the flesh is light yellow. Tuber weight is on average 90-140 g, starch content 13-16%. The variety has a high yield, good taste and high shelf life. According to the originator, it is resistant to the causative agent of potato cancer and nematode. Medium resistant to leaf curl virus, wrinkled mosaic.

Panthers. According to the originator, one of the best varieties European selection, which allows you to get very early production, which is especially important for the southern regions. Moreover, it is suitable for long-term storage. The yield is up to 60 t / ha. The tuber is oval, with small eyes. The peel is yellow, the flesh is light yellow. The mass of a commercial tuber is 90-120 g, the starch content is 11-15%. The variety has a good taste, high keeping quality and marketability. Resistant to cancer and nematodes, moderately resistant to late blight.

During two years of testing these varieties on my site, I would like to say that all varieties were distinguished by good friendly shoots, powerful green tops. The bushes looked vigorous, green until late autumn, which meant the resistance of these varieties to viruses and diseases, and all this with minimal maintenance.

With autumn approaching, you look forward to digging, so you want to see what is there in the ground under the bushes, what "treasure" will be found under each bush when digging.

All varieties showed a high yield of large, elongated or rounded tubers; on average, there were from 18 to 25 tubers under the bush. And again, I note that with minimal maintenance and the absence of organic fertilizers, I applied only mineral complex fertilizer when planting in the holes. And in the future, it remains to evaluate the taste of each variety and its storage in the winter.

I store all varieties of potatoes in an ordinary village cellar with little ventilation, in wooden boxes. During the storage period 2014-2015. did not notice any losses in these varieties. At the same time, other varieties under the same conditions had storage losses mainly due to late blight.

But the most important thing is taste, as the proverb says "There are no comrades for taste and color," but here it is probably different. Many will like the boiled, crumbly and tasty potatoes.

Boiled potatoes in water in a peel, or, as they say, in a "uniform", the photo shows how the varieties boiled. El Mundo, as reported to have excellent taste, has lived up to its characteristics. Warm boiled potatoes of this variety had a good consistency, and the taste was as if added to it butter, it just surprised me. The pulp is starchy, crumbly. When boiled, the tubers become crumbly. Over the years, I have never tested different varieties with such a flavor. So El Mundo can be called a variety with a royal taste.

The Bettina variety does not crumble during cooking and has a whole appearance, with dense pulp and good taste.

Bafana is probably the most crumbly of these varieties with high palatability.

Colomba and Panther were medium boiled during cooking and also had a tasty, slightly dense consistency.

These varieties were created with the requirements today: high yield; disease resistance, beautiful tuber shape with small eyes; resistance to mechanical damage during cleaning and high shelf life.

And in the course of personal observation of these varieties, I can say with complete confidence that the originators of these varieties managed to create good varieties, which are suitable for growing both on an industrial scale and on a garden plot.

In winter, I send to everyone who wishes free of charge the seeds of mordovnik, lakanos, clematis, gymnosperm pumpkin. To receive it, you must send a paid envelope with your return address in a letter, additionally attach a stamp for 2 rubles.

Lukshin Alexander Vasilievich , Mordovia, Elnikovsky district, with. Elniki, st. Zarechnaya - 263. E-mail: [email protected] ru. Site: Lykhin-organization.n4.biz

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Secrets of early potatoes

One of the main measures ensuring high yields of potatoes in early dates, is a high-quality preparation and germination of seed tubers. The most effective methods of germinating potatoes are combined (22 days in the light and 8 days in wet sawdust) and in the light.

Sprouting potatoes

The germination time of tubers varies from 20 to 45 days and depends on the storage temperature and germination conditions (temperature, illumination, air humidity, etc.). The optimum air temperature is over 10-15 degrees during the day, at least 5 degrees at night, and the air humidity is 80-90%. An increase in temperature to 20 degrees and above leads to unproductive consumption of nutrients by tubers for respiration and to excessive loss of moisture. It is very important that an elevated temperature is allowed only at the very beginning of the laying of tubers for germination: this allows you to quickly stimulate the transfer of reserve substances into shoots suitable for growth and development.

A very effective technique is sprouting with sawdust, moistened with ash infusion, sprinkled with tubers. Such germination accelerates tuberization and increases the yield of early-ripening varieties by 45-50%, and of mid-ripening varieties by 110-130%.

Tubers can be germinated in boxes installed in stacks with gaps, in foil bags with holes and in any other container. Potatoes should be packed in a layer of 2-3 tubers. At correct regulation light, temperature and air humidity in about a month on the tubers, green, strong, short shoots are formed with influxes at the base and root rudiments.

Sprouting potatoes in the light is carried out in lighted rooms, greenhouses, under sheds made of polyethylene film, as well as in open areas in boxes. Early spring sun rays largely destroy surface infection in tubers, promoting an increase in field germination and reducing disease damage to plants during the growing season. Studies have shown that sprouting potatoes in sunlight reduced the damage to sprouts by Rhizoctonia (black scab) by 19.4%, and common scab by 15.8%.

Planting potatoes

Planting should be carried out with tubers weighing at least 25-40 g without signs of disease. To obtain a very early harvest, it is better to use medium and large tubers weighing 50-70 and 70-100 g, respectively. Planting should be started when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 7-8 degrees, sprouted tubers are planted at a soil temperature of 5 degrees. It should be borne in mind that it is at this soil temperature that leaves on birches or the first dandelion flowers begin to appear, which is a signal for planting potatoes.

The planting depth of tubers depends on the planting method: in the ridges or on a flat surface with the subsequent build-up of ridges. Pre-cutting of the ridges 5-8 days before planting ensures good drying out and warming up of the soil, provokes the germination of weeds, which are easy to destroy during the planting process. Tubers should be planted into the ridges to a depth of 6-8 cm. For smooth planting, the tubers are sprinkled with a layer of soil 2-3 cm. This ensures better heating of the soil and tubers, while the seedlings will be earlier and more friendly.

Potatoes and care

Caring for early potato plantings is reduced to loosening the row spacings in order to destroy weeds, retain moisture and keep the soil loose. The first inter-row cultivation is usually carried out 5-6 days after planting, the rest - depending on the condition of the soil, the presence of weeds and weather conditions.

To protect them from frost, the seedlings are covered with soil by 3-4 cm. After frost, it is imperative to loosen the row spacings with harrowing. If the plants are still damaged by frost, it is necessary to fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers. To protect potato plants from frost and get an earlier harvest, plastic wrap or spunbond can be used. However, it must be borne in mind that under the shelter a favorable microclimate is created not only for the development of potato plants, but also for weeds.

A simple and affordable way to get an earlier harvest is to mulch the soil with peat crumb layer 3-4 cm.

Cleaning

The harvesting of early potatoes for food purposes begins when the tops are still green, the bulk of the tubers has reached a size of at least 5 cm in largest diameter and the yield of marketable tubers is 10-12 kg / 10 sq. m. Tubers young potatoes have a very thin and delicate skin, so it is best to transport them in a rigid container - baskets or boxes. In addition, every day you need to harvest as many potatoes as will be sold on the same day.

We need a deep "dugout"

When caring for potatoes, it is necessary to keep in mind one of its biological features: the higher the soil layer above the tuber, the more stolons the plant forms. Therefore, one of the first and constant methods of care is to create a high fertile layer over the tuber.

Helping potatoes from weeds

Immediately when the first shoots appear, they must be sprinkled with a 5-6 cm layer of soil. Potato shoots have a powerful growth force and quickly break through the filled layer. With this technique, we solve two more problems: we protect the seedlings from possible frosts and sprinkle the seedlings of weeds with earth. In the future, it is necessary to regularly spud potato plants with fertile and preferably moist soil, while leaving young and active leaves in the sunlight. With an ordinary placement of tubers, the height of the ridge should reach 20-30 cm, with a barrow method of planting - 30-40 cm.

The first danger to which potato seedlings are exposed is frost. They can negate all our efforts that we spent on preparing the tubers for planting. If the plants freeze, then we will get the first harvest much later than planned.

To protect the bushes, in addition to sprinkling the seedlings with dry soil, cover with film, paper caps is possible. Paradoxically, weeds will also save seedlings from low temperatures. There were cases when potato plants were badly damaged in well-weeded beds during frosts and yielded two weeks later. The less weeded rows, however, remained unscathed.

If the potatoes are still frozen, you should immediately water the plants with cold water. The resulting ice crystals will melt and will not cause tissue rupture.

Water and fertilizer for potatoes

Watering the potatoes gives a tangible increase in yield. Potato plants experience the highest demand for moisture during the period of intensive crop growth - in the budding and flowering phases. Therefore, during periods with a lack of precipitation, potatoes should be watered.

Early potato planting guidelines often talk about top dressing. But in fact, this technique can even have a harmful effect on the crop and, especially, on its quality. The thing is that this culture has a very short growing season. Nitrogen added to top dressing will cause an increased nitrate content in tubers. Potassium and especially phosphorus move poorly in the soil and do not have time to reach the root system of plants. So feeding will be useless. But when preparing the soil, it is necessary to apply the required amount of mineral fertilizers.

Why do potato tubers turn black

Boiled potatoes often darken. This is most often due to the unbalanced application of fertilizers.

If darkening is observed from the side of the umbilical end (this is the place of attachment of the tuber to the stolon), then the plants were overfed with potassium. As a result, the concentration of chlorogenic and citric acids increased, which, oxidizing in air, impart a dark color to the pulp. The situation is corrected by introducing carbamide at a dose of 1 kg per hundred square meters.

If the entire surface of the tuber darkens, waterlogging of the soil is to blame and increased content nitrogen. Phenolic compounds are formed in tubers, which are also oxidized by air. Therefore, it is necessary to observe the measure when applying nitrogen fertilizers - their dose should not be higher than 2 kg per hundred square meters.

Proper preparation of potato tubers

To get a rich potato crop, you need to protect the plants from pests and protect them from disease. This is best done when preparing tubers for planting and when the first shoots appear.

Wireworm Fight

Among the enemies of potatoes, the most common in recent years are the larvae of click beetles, or the so-called wireworms. They can, with an average number of 6-8 pieces per 1 sq. m damage up to 65% of tubers. This usually manifests itself in the form of moves made in the tubers and the yellow worms present there. The harmfulness of larvae is manifested mainly in the second half of summer with the beginning of the formation of tubers.

Scientific research has established. that the most effective method in the fight against this pest is dressing the tubers before planting. Research at the Institute of Plant Protection of Belarus showed that as a result of treating tubers with dressing agents, the damage caused by wireworms decreased by 60-87%, and the yield increased by 25-50%.

For use in summer cottages and household plots the drug "Cruiser" is recommended. It is used in a dose of 20 ml per 1 liter of water. For 100 kg of tubers, 1 liter of the prepared solution is required.

"Trojan horse" for the Colorado potato beetle

In addition, potato plants, especially early ones, are the most tasty prey for the Colorado potato beetle. There are now quite a few effective means protecting potatoes from this pest. An example of this is the drug "Troy" and its analogue "Prestige Chameleon". These are preparations of complex action. They act against wireworms, all kinds of ticks and caterpillars, and also have a preventive and therapeutic effect against late blight and other fungal diseases. They can be used to treat tubers before planting, which reliably protects potato plants from pests and diseases for the entire growth period. In addition, in the future, plants can be sprayed with solutions of these drugs.

The drug "Prestige Chameleon" is used as follows: 10 g of the product must be dissolved in 600-800 ml of water and treated with 25-30 kg of planting material using a sprayer. When processing with a working solution, the tubers are thoroughly mixed.

Prevent late blight on potatoes

The most dangerous disease is late blight. Early potatoes are especially susceptible to it. For prevention, it is very important to process potato plantings as early as possible - when full shoots appear. In more detail, the conditions for the use of drugs are indicated on the packaging of drugs, we will limit ourselves here to general information.

It is best to carry out the treatment with contact drugs mixed with systemic fungicides (doses are given in g or ml of the drug per 10 liters of water and per 1 hundred square meters of area):

• "Acrobat MC" -2;
• Ridomil Gold MC - 2.5;
• "Ordan" -2.5.

All subsequent treatments are carried out only with contact fungicides:

• Abiga Peak - 30;
• "Azofos, ps" - 40-60;
• "Azofos, k.s." - 60-70;
• Pennkoceb (tridex) -16;
• Kuproksat - 50;
• "Polyazophos (PKS-2)", "Polyazophos-1 (PKS-2 + K)" - 40-70;
• "HOM-k" -30.

The second treatment is carried out after 8-10 days. The average number of treatments is 3-4.

New products that are effective on potatoes have appeared in the retail network: the complex preparation "Marshal" (2 g per 10 l of water), the biological preparation "Fitosporin M" (5 g per 10 l of water).

Colored potatoes

For several years I have been fond of growing various varieties of potatoes, and recently among them there have been specimens with colored pulp - purple, blue and even red.

I started with Linzer Blau with a purple and unclassified look with pink flesh. Now my assortment has increased a little: I have purchased and tested several new color varieties, which I would like to briefly tell you about.

"Foreigners" varieties of potatoes with colored pulp

Cranberry red(red cranberry) - medium early variety, oval tuber with smooth red skin and pink-red flesh. Possesses a good, pleasant taste, does not discolor during cooking.

All red(all red) is a mid-season variety with a delicate red skin and flesh. His characteristic feature is drought resistance. The tubers have a pleasant nutty flavor.

Explosion(explosion) is a new early-maturing high-yielding variety. The tubers have a blue flesh. Resistant to diseases.

All blue(all blue) is a mid-late variety. Tubers are medium in size, showy of blue color with purple flesh, well kept, high taste. The structure of the pulp allows it to be subjected to all types of culinary processing. To maintain the color, it is important that the potatoes do not boil over.

Boro- mid-season variety. The tubers have a blue flesh and a bronze sheen rind. Used raw for salads.

Domestic varieties of potatoes with colored pulp

Currently, many breeding institutions are working to create varieties of potatoes with colored pulp. In Russia at the Institute. A.G. Lorkha, which is located in the Moscow region, was created and is already widely spreading a mid-season variety with purple pulp Lilac. Round-oval tuber weighing 70-80 g. Productivity is average, good keeping quality.

From the latest novelties of Russian breeders - the Raspberry variety with red pulp, which does not lose its color during cooking and has a good taste.

Results of the experiment

I did not create special conditions during testing of colored potato varieties, I did everything as usual. When planting in the holes, I apply a mineral complex fertilizer, during the season I carry out weeding, hilling and watering.

The soil on my site is black soil with light loam. On it, the colored varieties did not show good yields, there were an average of 7-8 tubers per bush, and of a small size. Only Explosion produced good large potatoes, which, by the way, looked more like red beet roots.

At the same time, the colored varieties are considered to show good yields on fertile and more breathable soils with light texture. Plants develop poorly when high temperatures and lack of moisture.

What is the use

Why do we need potatoes with such pulp? Of course, purple or red puree is exotic, but is it necessary to engage in complex breeding work for such an effect?

The main value is the high content of antioxidants, which is associated with the pigment substances anthocyanins. In our body, they are not synthesized, they come only with food. Anthocyanins bind free radicals, increase immunity and prevent premature aging of cells in the human body.

In order not to lose the color of the pulp, potatoes of colored varieties must be cooked in a peel in salted water.

GROWING EARLY POTATOES - TIPS FOR GARDENERS AND GARDENERS

The potato is young, but very early

Someone just gets potatoes for planting from the basement, while others are already laying out young crumbly potatoes on plates. Some plant hectares, while others plant in pots. The only pity is that you can't cook it right in the pan.

I have been planting early potatoes since 1970. She was forced by need, she became a widow very early, and she had three children in her arms. My husband and I lived for a long time in Stavropol Territory, and when she was left alone with the children, she moved to her homeland - to the Smolensk region. There they gave me 14 acres of land, so to speak, lifting. I developed them and began to plant potatoes, the seeds were first given by relatives, and then my own appeared. My salary at that time was 90 rubles (for comparison: an engineer received 210 rubles). And the children had to be fed, clothed, that's when in the spring I decided to sell potatoes in the market. On a weekend early in the morning I went to the market, and by 12 o'clock my potatoes were already sorted out! This is how potatoes feed me all my life.

I plant it very early, I take out March from the basement. 2-3 buckets of potatoes, washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and laid out to dry in fruit boxes with ventilation holes. From time to time I spray with water and sprinkle with ashes. On April 26, I am already planting potatoes in the furrows, and they emerge three weeks earlier than others. The first time I dig potatoes on June 18, the second time - on June 22 and I take a bucket to my family, on this day my daughter has a birthday, for the holiday there is always fresh young potatoes on the table. And the third time I dig for my birthday, July 1, but I constantly dig it all summer.

I plant potatoes in the ground in the spring without applying manure. In the fall, immediately after harvesting, I plant mustard on a potato bed, I don’t mow it before winter, but dig up this bed with lodged mustard in the spring, make holes for potatoes and put a pinch of fertilizer for potatoes in each hole, then a little earth, potatoes on top and on it a handful of onion peels. Then I fall asleep with earth. If the ground is dry, then I water it after planting. I huddle twice a season.

After planting, I sprinkle the rows of potatoes with ash to scare off the Colorado beetles. And during the summer I sprinkle ashes twice more, maybe that's why last year Colorado did not attack my potatoes at all. I never throw away onion husks, I collect all winter, and in spring it goes to the potato ridge.

Last year, she planted potatoes at a record early, on the third day after Easter, that is, on April 23rd. On June 18, I dug for the first time. Onion peel potatoes are clean and even. When I brought it to my relatives, my grandson said to me: "Grandma, no one has potatoes yet, you probably grow them on the balcony!" And I answered him: “You know, granddaughter, who gets up early, God always gives to him, but water does not flow under a lying stone. Learn to get up early and work, then you will always have potatoes early! "

© Z. V. Krasnikova

Straight in pots and buckets

I plant early potatoes in buckets, pans - and the result is always satisfactory. I use Red Scarlett. But the potatoes in the bags let us down, the experiment ended in failure. This is an option for the lazy. Greasy green tops have grown, but there are no ovaries. But here's what I'm interested in: have our Russian sellers really lost their conscience? After all, they sell seed potatoes for big money. Last spring it cost 30 rubles per kg. They tried to convince me that the variety is very good, I bought it, and as a result, there was not even a single sprout, so I threw it all into the trash. 1,500 rubles went down the drain. But for us, pensioners, this is a lot of money! In general, anything can happen: both good and bad.

N. Romandina Kursk region

What prevents you from planting potatoes early? It is obvious. The fact that the soil has not yet warmed up properly. There is folk way... Scatter coal dust directly over the snow. The sun will heat up the black particles - and the snow will melt earlier.

The earliest potato?

Now eating early potatoes in June is not a problem, all supermarkets are overwhelmed with them.

But its taste leaves much to be desired. So we thought: can we ourselves grow the harvest of the "second bread" so that it gets on the table at the beginning of summer? How to do it? I would like an agronomist to answer my question, preferably from a nearby area.

Vera Andreevna SHILOVA, Udmurtia, Glazov

The choice of planting material

To obtain an early harvest of potatoes - in the second half of June - it is necessary to select a variety with a growing season from germination to the formation of full-fledged tubers in 50-65 days. Of course, such an early variety must be adapted to the region. You can find out from reference books or consult on the market with local gardeners, who are the first to start selling potatoes. Thus, the well-known early Borodyansky pink variety gives stable yields regardless of weather conditions, has excellent taste, but is susceptible to diseases.

Always try to place 3-4 varieties, because it is impossible to predict the weather of the coming season. And it so happens that last year the variety showed itself to be high-yielding, and the next year it may fail.

One of the new products that has proven itself well in our area is the early variety Colette. It stands out for its good yield and, most importantly, for its excellent taste. The high-yielding German variety Bellarosa with large tubers has shown itself well. Although it is early, its tubers are perfectly stored. Our Siberian variety Alena is not inferior to the German. It has beautiful, slightly elongated tubers with red skin and white flesh.

The Meteor variety, created by scientists from the Lorkh Institute from the Moscow region, lives up to its name: it ripens super fast and at the same time gives a good yield. The tubers are large, the skin and flesh are yellow.

El Moon-do remains the leader in taste of foreign varieties. Its tubers, after boiling, taste as if butter were added to them. But the Impala variety can be recognized as the most productive with large tubers and a large number of them under the bush. For three seasons, we are pleased with the German variety with the Russian name Natasha. These early potatoes are distinguished by good yields, disease resistance, excellent taste and attractive outward appearance tubers.

Hussar on a "horse"

The new Gusar variety of breeders from Belogorka (Leningrad Region) was bred with the participation of six different types wild potatoes, famous for their "indifference" to various diseases. Hussar is resistant to cancer, nematodes, viral diseases, alternaria, rhizoctonia, scab, however, in relation to late blight it has average indicators. The cultivar also tolerates drought well, does not attract the Colorado potato beetle and is even able to resist weeds to some extent. Tubers are attractive, short-oval, yellow, light creamy flesh. The taste is good. Tubers have a long dormant period, at a temperature of 3-5 degrees Celsius they can be stored without germination for up to 7 months.

Preplant preparation of early potatoes

After choosing a variety, you need to prepare the tubers, and it is better to start this in the second half of March - early April. They should weigh on average 60 to 120 g - no larger than a chicken egg. Large potatoes are not suitable for planting, and I do not use chopped as planting material at all. Excess wounds on the tuber always carry an additional risk of infection with viruses, bacteria, fungi, even with careful processing of the sections. The planting material must be carefully examined, while all tubers with noticeable various sores are immediately removed.

After that, it is advisable to treat the potatoes with drugs for the prevention of diseases. Currently, there are a lot of different means intended for this purpose, including such well-known ones as "Maxim" and "Prestige", which I used until I made a discovery for myself quite by accident: it turns out that we have developed an excellent drug in Russia. "TMTD-plus". It is effective in treating tubers against various bacterial, viral and fungal diseases of potatoes. "Supplement" plus means that an immunomodulator and other substances are introduced into the composition of the drug, which significantly affect the increase in germination energy, and, consequently, on the acceleration of germination, increase in yield and drought resistance. It is a pity that it is sometimes difficult to acquire this product, it is not available in all stores, but imported fungicides are present in almost every outlet for gardeners.

The second drug that I really liked was Mival-Agro. It is a complex biological plant growth regulator based on living silicon. After one treatment of the planting material, success is ensured for the entire season. The drug is packed in a capsule

ly, you need to dilute one in 0.5 liters, and this amount is enough to spray 50 kg of seed potatoes. The same preparation is used to treat seedlings in the phase of 3-5 true leaves or during the budding period of plants. The solution for these purposes is prepared in the same way as for the treatment of tubers before planting. The drug significantly increases germination and germination energy, stimulates root formation, increases resistance to unfavorable growing conditions: sudden temperature changes, spring return frosts, heat and drought. It also restores the development of plants after damage (hail, low temperatures), increases yields up to 25-30%, improves product quality.

Echinacea is a herbaceous perennial, highly decorative and medicinal properties... It is a very popular plant among gardeners around the world.

Echinacea belongs to the Asteraceae family, it comes from North America. The name comes from Greek word- "echinos", which means hedgehog. Most likely, this is due to its inflorescence, which, when fully ripe, becomes round and prickly.

I want to tell you about two types of echinacea. The first is purple (Echinacea purpurea), which was introduced into culture from 1692 and on this moment has many varieties and hybrids. It has large, exquisite purple flowers (up to 12 cm in diameter). Her flowers are located on upright rigid stems that reach 1.5 m in height. The core of the flowers at the beginning is soft, but by the end of summer it matures and becomes prickly.

The second type - Echinacea strange (Echinacea paradoxa)- the only yellow echinacea in the genus. But she has a lower frost resistance than other echinacea.

Echinacea purpurea and strange is more often grown as an ornamental plant. On their basis, modern varieties and hybrids have been created.

Over the past 10 years, breeders (primarily from Holland, Germany and America) have created several dozen varieties that differ in plant height, leaf color, size and color of inflorescences-baskets. Some varieties have fragrant buds. Varietal plants prefer fertile soil and full sun.

Echinacea grows late in spring, so it is undesirable to use them as foreground plants. But they bloom for a long time and decorate the garden in the second half of summer - from July to frost.

I have been growing Echinacea purpurea for many years. Recently I got carried away with other varieties. I was very interested in echinacea with a white color. And now on my site flaunts variety White swan (While Swan)... Plants of this variety are tall, up to 80 cm, highly decorative, with large, up to 10 cm in diameter, white flowers.

Blooms profusely and continuously from August to frost. Like all varieties of echinacea, it loves a bright place and fertile soil, where it grows well and pleases with abundant flowers.

Echinacea is, so to speak, “not a fighter,” not a conqueror. It grows for a long time in one place and does not seek to capture more space - it grows as a compact neat bush.

Echinacea is propagated mainly by seeds. I collect them when the buds-inflorescences are fully ripe and prickly. I sift them and select the fullest, ripe seeds. I store it in paper bags until spring.

It should be noted that its seeds have a reduced germination rate due to the high content essential oils, so they take a long time to sprout. I sow seeds in March-April to a depth of 0.5 cm.

For better germination, the box with seeds can be put in the refrigerator for two weeks, and then covered with foil and transferred to a warm place.

Seedlings appear in 8-14 days. During the growth of seedlings, the main thing is to observe the moisture content of the soil. Do not overfill or overdry the soil.

When the frost passes, I plant the seedlings in a permanent place according to the scheme of 30x30 cm. At first, it is advisable to shade the delicate seedlings so that they do not burn out in the sun.

Leaving is uncomplicated. Over the summer, you can make 2-3 additional fertilizing with manure infusion or complex fertilizer.

I also propagate Echinacea by dividing the rhizomes. In addition, it is advisable to do this every 5-6 years, since the rhizome grows old over time and the plant feels depressed, begins to develop poorly and bloom.

I became interested in Tladiante many years ago, dreaming of acquiring this rare unusual plant with useful properties.

Doubtful tladianta(Thladiantha dubia) - the only winter hardy perennial species among other thermophilic representatives of the genus Tladiant, belonging to the pumpkin family.
Doubtful tladianta is a powerful herbaceous vine with edible fruits. In nature, it grows in Russian Far East and in Northeast China.

In the works of I.V. Michurin, I read that Ivan Vladimirovich wanted to use the Tladian in selection. He planned to create perennial pumpkin crops with her participation. For example, a perennial cucumber and a perennial watermelon, it's a good idea to have these plants on your site.

I started looking for Tlandianta planting material. In one of the magazines I came across an article by a vegetable grower from Lipetsk with the title "You will not forget the Tladian". After correspondence with the author, I managed to get several nodules of this plant, grow and propagate the tladian.

At first, I became interested in this culture for breeding purposes, for the creation of perennial pumpkin crops -, and. But these experiments of mine did not give any results.

Doubtful tladianta has been growing on my site for over 20 years. The main thing that I can say about this vine is - yes, you really won't forget the tladian ...

Disadvantages and merits of the dubious tladians

At first, knowing little about this vine, I assigned the best place on my site for the tladiant, where I planted its nodules. But in the end, after a few years, this plant became malicious in me.
The fact is that tladians have tuberous roots - it forms tubers in the soil, like in. This vine has yellow-skinned tubers, oval... During the garden season, the roots grow in different directions from each parent plant of dubious tladians, as a result, daughter tubers are formed within a radius of up to 2 meters. And you need to be careful when digging these tubers: if even a tiny part of it remains in the soil, it will grow back into a powerful vine and give a large offspring of new tubers.

I had such a case. The dug-out tubers of the dubious tladians lay in a bucket almost all summer, dried in the sun. But as soon as they were poured onto wet soil in the fall, green shoots soon appeared.

Yes, this climbing plant can weed heavily on the site. The disadvantage of tladiana is the rapid growth of tuberous roots in the soil over long distances. But it is worth planting tladiant tubers in some container, thus limiting their distribution, and then the plant will not "run away" anywhere. You can isolate a site with planted tladianthy tubers by digging sheets of iron or slate along its edges (to a depth of 50-60 cm).

The leaves of the tladiant are heart-shaped; they are pubescent. Therefore, when touched, the leaves stick to clothes and even just to open skin. However, there is no harm from this - the leaves of the tladiant are not poisonous and do not burn, but simply stick like Velcro.

But the dubious tladiante has not only drawbacks, but also advantages. Tladiana was named "red cucumber", and the planting material of this plant was in great demand.
Powerful shoots of dubious tladians, in favorable conditions reaching 5 meters in length, grow very quickly (several centimeters per day), forming a large green mass. Tladianta, thanks to its exuberant growth and rough shoots with antennae, actively rises in height and curls any support. In just a month, an overgrown liana can completely cover a vast space with greenery - cover everything that is next to it. Therefore, tladianthus is used as a way to create green arches and verticals in the garden and vegetable garden with its help, as well as to cover unsightly corners of the garden with greenery. Liana blooms from July to September.

I use the tladianthus as, which, with its long shoots with powerful growth, is able to quickly decorate the wall of a house, a fence, a gazebo, an arch, and figured supports of various configurations.
Just imagine how this powerful liana looks with shoots up to 5 m, hung with bright ripe fruits - "red cucumbers". And, besides, in our region this plant hibernates without problems, has no pests and diseases.
One could say that the dubious tladiant is just a treasure for the gardener and the gardener. But everything is not so great here.

Ripe fruits in tladiants are red, small (from 2 to 5 cm), similar to miniature cucumbers. But on top, its fruits are pubescent, and not everyone will like them. After ripening, the fruits of the tladians become sweeter, their taste is something unusual - it resembles a mixture of pumpkin and exotic plants, like baked pumpkin with notes of and.
You can use green unripe tladiant fruits in the same way as regular cucumbers.

But even with the fruiting of this vine, not everything is so successful, due to the fact that the tladiant is a dioecious plant. And in our region, local insects refuse to visit the yellow medium-sized (2.5 cm) flowers of the tladiant. Therefore, to obtain fruit, it will be necessary to carry out artificial pollination of flowers in the summer: you need to manually transfer pollen from male flowers to female flowers. Broad-bellied male flowers of dubious tladiana with petals bent back are placed in racemose inflorescences, and flat female flowers are located singly.
Often, the fruits can be set on the tladiant without pollination, but there will be only a few of them on the shoots. In ripe fruits, small full-fledged seeds are formed.

In the photo: blooming tladiant; liana tladianty decorates the wall

Tladiant in medicine

Tladiant is a medicinal plant.

Ripe fruits of tladians - red "cucumbers" - normalize blood pressure.
From flowers tladiants brew healing and drink it for colds.

Tladiants tubers are also used for medicinal purposes. When boiled, their taste resembles potatoes with peas, only with bitterness. Tladiant tubers are used as a lactogonous agent (enhancing milk production in lactating women), as well as a diuretic and choleretic agent.

Reproduction and cultivation of tladiants

Tladiant reproduces quickly and easily - both by seeds and tubers.
Seeds are sown for seedlings in April, then the seedlings are planted in cups.

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Today I will introduce readers to the best new varieties of tomato presented by Agrofirma Aelita, created in 1988 and successfully working on Russian market... All Aelita varieties were created for Russia and meet the main requirements: cold-resistant, early maturing, high-yielding and disease-resistant.

Sweet Million - high yielding and abundant fruit even in adverse conditions. In him, unlike other similar varieties, the brush ripens at the same time, and the brushes themselves - sequentially. The variety is early maturing, tall (up to two meters). Fruits are round, red, weighing 15 g. Highly resistant to late blight. The variety is good for both canning and fresh consumption.

Michel is an early maturing tall variety. The fruits are flat-round, red, weighing 150 g, very tasty and sweet. Differs in high fruit set in unfavorable conditions and high resistance to late blight. Used for canning and fresh consumption.

Oksana is an early ripe, tall (up to two meters) variety. The fruits are barrel-shaped, red, weighing up to 80 g. This variety is the best for canning - the fruits are dense, fleshy, do not burst when pickled and have an excellent appearance both fresh and canned. Highly resistant to late blight, transportable.

Miracle banana is a mid-early, undersized variety. Fruits are dense, fleshy, elongated, red, weighing 60-80 g, with high taste. The variety is highly resistant to many diseases and is used for canning.

Crown Prince is the earliest ripening tomato with large fruits up to 400 g. The plant is undersized, highly resistant to late blight. Fruits are round-flat, red, slightly ribbed, fleshy.

The Northern Beauty is undersized, therefore does not require a garter and pinching. Fruits are cylindrical, red, weighing 100 g, tasty, transportable. Good for canning.

"Aelita" cooperates with other companies for the selection of vegetable crops. The result of this cooperation with VNIISSOK was the restored Moscow Autumn variety - it was almost lost. Differs in high fruit set at low illumination.

Together with the Pridnestrovian Research Institute of Agriculture, Aelita has created promising new varieties of tomatoes: Ruslan, Lel, Ocharovanie, Lion's Heart.

I'm not interested in hybrids - their seeds are expensive, you can't get your own seeds from a plant, and they require more care.

I will answer all your questions.

I offer seeds of the above varieties of tomatoes and other vegetables. Include a self-addressed envelope in your letter. 431370, Mordovia, p. Elniki, st. Zarek, 263.

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To avoid phytophthora

For a successful fight against late blight, it is necessary to carry out such measures as pre-sowing seed treatment; feeding plants with mineral and organic fertilizers; selection of tomato varieties; compliance with agrotechnical practices; treatment with drugs for late blight. Only by observing this set of measures can you get healthy fruits of tomatoes.

I sow tomato seeds for seedlings between February 26th and March 15th. Before that, I put them for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate of medium strength (that is, red), then for 1-2 days in a solution of superphosphate (a matchbox for 200 ml of water).

In late April - early May, I plant seedlings in a greenhouse, and on May 20-25 in open ground... When planting in each hole, I put 500-700 g of humus, 15-20 g of superphosphate (1 tablespoon), 30-40 g (2 tablespoons) of wood ash. During June, I feed the plants with a mullein (a spoon for 10 liters of water) once every 7-10 days.

In July, I start feeding with superphosphate: 20-30 g per 1 m2 randomly, wood ash (500 g per bucket of water). In addition, in the flowering phase, I spray the tomatoes with the Ovyaz preparation.

To prevent the development of late blight, one cannot do without a number of agrotechnical methods.

This is, firstly, the observance of the distance between the beds and plants. Secondly, tall varieties of tomatoes need to be pinned, and when the fruits ripen, cut off the leaves that shade the fruit, and lower leaves... Thirdly, - in my experience, with the threat of late blight disease, such a technique as complete pruning of all leaves helps to accelerate the ripening of fruits.

The correct selection of varieties is also of great importance. I prefer super early tomatoes. Their advantages are obvious: due to their early maturity, they have time to ripen before late blight appears, do not require pinching, garters, or processing.

The earliest ripening, according to my observations, are the following varieties: Non-n, Betta, Renet, Snowdrop, Little Red Riding Hood, Efimer, Gruntovy-3, Kazabalyk early. Long time the leader in early maturity on my site was the Betta variety, undersized, super early, with fruits of 60-90 g, with a yield of 1.5-2 kg. Fruits on Efimer tomatoes began to ripen 3-7 days later. But as it turned out, Betta is in no way inferior in early maturity to the Kazabalyk early tomato variety, which I grow for the first time this year.

This is also a low-growing tomato with fruits of 50-90 g, yield 3-4 kg per bush. The first fruits began to ripen at the same time as Betta, that is, on July 1-2.

In addition to super early tomatoes, it is beneficial to grow late blight-resistant varieties. I would like to draw your attention to two varieties: Late blight and Sub-Arctic 2. I grew both varieties this year, I did not process these varieties against late blight. And this is what the experiment showed. The first signs of late blight appeared on Late blight-resistant on 23 August, in the Sub-Arctic on 2 - 20 August. The bulk of the fruits had already ripened by this time.

Phytophthora-resistant is a new variety, mid-season, bush 40-60 cm, fruits are elongated-oval, red, weighing 50-90 g, good taste.

In addition to super early varieties, I want to grow large-fruited tomatoes with good taste. These are, as a rule, medium-sized or tall, mid-ripening or late-ripening varieties. And here you cannot do without preventive treatments for late blight. This year I have grown such mid-season tall varieties as Michurinskaya Gloria, Zolotaya Operetta, Kamenny and others. Michurinskaya Gloria is a tomato up to 80-100 cm high, the fruits are red, fleshy, tasty, weighing 150-350 g. Gold operetta is a bush up to one meter, the fruits are yellow, sweet, melon-flavored, weighing 300-600 g. bushes up to 90 cm, fruits are red, tasty, fleshy, weighing 200-500 g.

For the prevention of late blight, I used a combination of drugs: Fitosporin-M (biological drug) and Kurzat (chemical). As a result, plants treated with these preparations did not suffer from late blight.